Preview: How to Build a Caledonia Yawl, Part 5 – Tips for Mixing and Applying Epoxy

15 Responses So Far to “How to Build a Caledonia Yawl, Part 5 – Tips for Mixing and Applying Epoxy”

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  Anton Shramkov says:

  Dear Geoff and all OCH team,
  Thank you for fantastic videos that you are doing and this series especially.
  It was very interesting, informative, educational and useful for me as an amateur boatbuilder.

  I’m in the current moment is in the beginning of reviving one old dinghy and looking for a reasonable epoxy system that could suit all my requirements. After your introduction to west system epoxy, I’m almost convinced that it’s the right one. Though since I haven’t used it before and the information on the official website of the company is not too comprehensive. I can’t estimate the amount to order. And would kindly ask you to help me with it by revealing how much resin and other materials you used for building this particular Caledonian ?
  Also in your videos you are always using 207 hardener instead of other options, would it be possible to know why ?

  Thank you in advance,
  Anton.

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    Anton Shramkov says:

    Sorry,
    Now I saw your answer on the second my question related with 207 hardener;)
    Though the first one is still very interesting

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    Geoff Kerr says:

    I’m sorry to say that I don’t have an accurate answer for you. WEST contributed a nice batch of materials to that project, and I worked with what they furnished. Off the top of my head I would imagine needing 4-5 gallons of mixed epoxy (resin plus hardener) to build a Caledonia. That is using a versatile formulation for adhesive, filleting and coating. I use enough of the various thickeners to buy in bulk and keep it on hand. Given the size of the standard WEST canisters of thickeners I see getting three or four of the basic adhesive and filleting stuff . Sorry not to be more of more help!

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      Anton Shramkov says:

      Dear Geoff,
      Thank you for your reply and information.
      For me it is very helpful since it give some understanding of how much actually I would need..
      And I promise to share all my data at the end, so this question is not left as a mastery…

      All the very best.
      Sincerely,
      Anton.

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  Joshua Parker says:

  To what temperatures is the trick of a sheet plastic tent and a 100 watt incandescent light bulb good to in heating the boat/epoxy to get a good cure? Looking at a winter boat build here in Virginia and overnight temps are usually around freezing. Will be in a unheated and uninsulated garage. I get a lot of 70 ish days through October and sometimes into December so working conditions aren’t too bad it will likely be overnight.

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    Geoff Kerr says:

    I can’t be too specific, but think you will get along just fine down there in the temperate part of the world. Variables to keep in mind are that you don’t always need to have an overnight cure unless there are productivity pressures like a payroll or class schedule. You can manage the cure by adding heat ( I like a small oil filled electric radiator style heater) or insulation ( double wrap of plastic), checking the weather, scheduling a glue-up for the morning so it has the warmer part of the day to kick, and adding a thermometer to your arsenal. I routinely let my shop cool down to 45 F at night, and tent when and if needed.

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      Joshua Parker says:

      Thanks Geoff! I have done most of the things you have recommended and stayed successful with the epoxy so far this winter.

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        Geoff Kerr says:

        Glad you are succeeding.

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  Peter Alonso says:

  Hello Geoff, this fantastic video series has given me the confidence to start my own build, though I am starting small with a lapstrake decked canoe. Why do you use 207 Hardener vs 205 or 206? Thank you

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    Geoff Kerr says:

    It is my impression that207 is WEST’s non-blushing, slowest, most versatile hardener, esp. good for clear coating. When they signed on as a sponsor and we described the project it is the product they suggested. Above all, working alone on a project of this scale one needs the slowest hardener possible .

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    Kent Lewis says:

    Another benefit if 207 is that it is the Special Clear Hardener, it dries clear and does not take on an amber hue that other epoxies might. We have used it without varnish on our wooden Sunfish that is stored inside, it only gets UV when it is sailing, so that saved us from having to varnish. Might consider that on your canoe. This was recommended to us by our friend who is Boat Carpenter, he uses it a lot on interior brightwork. It used to be more expensive, but not much in the overall scope of a project. The other hardeners are chosen based on the application temps and desired working/cure time. Good tech info on the West System webpage. FMI: http://smallboatrestoration.blogspot.com/p/alcort-sunfish.html

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  James Vitale says:

  Hi Geoff:
  Enjoyed it; learned a lot. What do you consider the minimum temperature for using epoxy over fiberglass? We sailed a bit on a CLC Pocketship a few years ago at OkeumeFest here on the Chesapeake Bay. Enjoyed your company….
  Jimmy V

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    Geoff Kerr says:

    Ambient temp will affect pumping, mixing, application and cure. Manufacturers supply guidelines with their products, and the characteristics vary from brand to brand and within the various formulations in a given brand. Familiarity and experience with a specific product go a long way to enhancing confidence and productivity. Now, with that disclaimer taken care of : In general my experience is that below 60 degrees things start to get slow enough to hamper the project. Tactics to consider are keeping the resin and hardener warm, and heating the project at night rather than the whole shop space In both cases, just warm. Oftentimes a sheet plastic tent and a 100 watt incandescent light bulb in a drop light will make all the difference in an overnight cure.

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  William Bauer says:

  here is a tip when mixing 407;
  equal number of resin/harder pumps to heaping tablespoons of 407 gives you a good starting point.
  Also use a container with a lid, such as a yogurt container. Mix the epoxy, add the 407 and put the lid on and shake. After about 20 shakes or so you will feel the slosh change to a lump rolling around. Take the lid off and finish mixing with the stick. NO DUST!

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  Lee Fox says:

  Great job Geoff and crew on how to mix and apply epoxy! …smooth as peanut butter! :)