Preview: How to Build a Caledonia Yawl, Part 15 – Planking

25 Responses So Far to “How to Build a Caledonia Yawl, Part 15 – Planking”

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  Mark Noble says:

  For clarification, at the beginning of the video when the overlap at the stem was 1.5″ instead of 1″, what did you do to remedy that?

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    Geoff Kerr says:

    Since the planks appeared to be fair and nicely shaped relative to their neighbors I chose to accept the overlaps and cut the gains ( or “rabbets” or “rebates”) to match. Bevel the lap on the previous plank as appropriate, dry fit the next plank and mark the overlap as it exists. You’ll then have the shape of the rabbet you need to cut.

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  Viki Smith says:

  Hi, The videos are keeping me sane, but my techniques need some work! I’m looking for advice if anyone has any?
  I glued up my second plank – it’s a kit/well cut pieces – I lined up the curve before glueing, but somehow, I’ve overcooked the curve, and on rechecking it – it’s a half inch over curved to the bow end. So, my ideas to fail forward are either;
  1) fit it as best I can, cut plank on to fit #4 station in the center/be a bit shy at bow. Tidy up as I go – make the matching plank to same ‘bad’ curve to keep boat equal?
  2) cut the plank at the ‘bad’ join, re-scarf and reglue it to the right curve?

  Any views or alternative ideas gratefully received

  Anyone got views? Things I haven’t thought of?

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    Geoff Kerr says:

    Viki, It’s time for a deep cleansing breath and an easy fix. I suggest you slowly and patiently heat the scarf joints with your heat gun (if you don’t have one yet get one at your local hardware). Do one joint at a time, working both sides alternately, maybe for a ten count . You can use the high heat setting, a few inches away, moving the heat over the width of the joint. You are too close and too focused on one spot when you smell a campfire or see the surface darkening…pay attention. After a couple of deliberate minutes you can start to try to gently pull the joint apart. Be patient and it will work. The second joint will seem a breeze.

    Once disassembled you can clean out the orig epoxy with your heat gun and a scraper and have a do over at gluing them up correctly.

    As a wise old boatbuilder once told me, “Its not a mistake if you can fix it today”.

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      Viki Smith says:

      That’s great! I’m glad I stepped away from it today, as this is a much better option. Thanks for this – I will follow it carefully, and much appreciated.

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  Joshua Parker says:

  Is there a gain cut between the garboard and the 1st broadstrake?

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    Geoff Kerr says:

    There will need to be a gain cut at any plank lap on a lapstrake build. There will be some variation depending on the angle at which the pair of planks meet the stem (or transom).Sometimes one needs to include a bit of bevel in the underlaying rabbet. Gains are one of the seven mystical secrets of boatbuilding…I can only counsel staring at the end of the boat and imagining what need to happen to keep the ocean out. Sketching it out often helps too.

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  David Eastwood says:

  Hello and thanks for this site. I am building a traditional lapstrake dinghy using Douglas Fir and clinched nails/screws. Are there videos available showing the planking stage. I have the backbone finished on the molds and am not confident to start the garboards without some more information.

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  David Lee says:

  The Caledonia comes in two versions, the four plank and the seven. Since lapstrake hulls make noise because of the water splashing against bottom edges of the planks, are seven plank Caledonias louder than the four?

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    Geoff Kerr says:

    I think the idea of lapstrake hulls being noisy is rather an old wives tale, and, at worst, inconsequential. Any increase in the “noise” from the increase in the number of laps is probably offset by the smoother or softer overall shape. No one has ever looked at either my boat or a 7 plank Caledonia and had to shout over the noise. If you are trying to decide between the versions I suggest you should contemplate aesthetics and construction difficulty. Finally, understand that Iain drew the 7 plank version at the commissioned request of a client, not as a natural refinement of the design. There are those among us who think the 4 plank is the better looking hull.

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      David Lee says:

      Thanks, Geoff. I appreciate you settling an argument!

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  Neil Moomey says:

  Very informative, thanks. I made the mistake of only rabbiting the plank that was already glued on the boat so mine don’t taper down to the stems like yours. Oh well. Since this was a kit you did not have to spile. It would be nice to have a supplemental video on spiling a plank and the proper use of battens. One problem I am having is I spile the plank on top of the batten and when I remove the batten my planks don’t fit anymore. I’m thinking about counter sinking the battens into the molds now.

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    Steve Stone says:

    Hey Neil. Thanks for your note… and you’re in luck. We just released a video on traditional spiling of a plank.
    Here’s the link: Putting a Plank in the NELLIE H, Part 1 – The Deer Isle Spile

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    Geoff Kerr says:

    I would consider not using a batten when you spile. The lower edge of the plank can be marked at each station/mold…then spring a batten and fair the points when you are laying out the plank on the bench

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  Ian Hendrie says:

  Quick question. Did you trim the width of the plank that overlapped too much at the bow? If so, how do you prevent not having a wide enough plank to fit the next one? There is no bow mould so how do you tell if the lower end of the plank is properly positioned?
  Thanks. Great videos with excellent commentary.

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    Geoff Kerr says:

    You need to pick up the plank ends on the stem lofting/pattern and transfer them to the stems.

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  David Isbell says:

  I love this series. I have a question for Geoff: If you need to can’t the jack plane when cutting plank bevels, why not use a shorter plane such as a block plane?

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    Geoff Kerr says:

    Better leverage and ergonomics with the bigger plane for the rough work.

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  Glenn Holland says:

  The screw gun symphony was a nice touch. Keep up the very good video work.

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  Kip Otteson says:

  This is exactly the stage I’m doing right now. It’s a bit unnerving to see how my boat is not like a pros, but I’m plugging away. Thanks for the videos and I look forward to seeing how my boat progresses compared to this one.

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  EeBee4 says:

  Excellent. Seeing is believing. Small details and techniques in the whole series have really helped. My Sooty Tern will be much the benefactor from this series. I am 1/3 planked. Will be at 1/2 tomorrow.

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  Robert Nash says:

  This was the best video yet in a great series. Reading about the planking process is one thing; watching an expert do it is priceless. Thanks!

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  Weaver Lilley says:

  Wow. A real education. Many thanks!

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  William Boulden says:

  Very happy to see this particular video in the series. Having not done this yet but, planing on one next year that I will.

  Thank you guys for doing this series!

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  Bill Bouldin says:

  This step by step is very cool