Preview: Spring Painting, Beauty is the Reward – Prepping & Painting a Wooden Boat’s Topsides

36 Responses So Far to “Spring Painting, Beauty is the Reward – Prepping & Painting a Wooden Boat’s Topsides”

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  Jeffrey Evans says:

  A word of caution to those who transport their boats by trailer after painting. I have now tried this method twice during two consecutive years, on a Haven 12 1/2. Basically the same boat. I have to say, the boat looked terrific as she rolled out of the shop.

  However, 35 miles down the road it was a different story. I don’t know if it was caused by the jostling of the boat on the trailer, the wind drying the wood as I drove her, or what, but the MEK compound cracked all along my seams and through the paint in the mid-section. The bow was fine, but near the trailer jacks (used to balance the boat) it was all problems. I think the compound is just too rigid or brittle to adhere well in places where the wood moves a lot, which might be exacerbated by trailering.

  Now it’s time to paint again, and I’m wondering how to get the MEK out of the boat without totally reefing the seams out. Planning to use a flexible compound this time!!

  Best,
  Jeff

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  David Morton says:

  After sanding and fairing, I noticed the Epigrond did not cover well over the seams. Is there a problem painting over the Petit seam compound or the 3M filler?

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  Robert Wakefield says:

  Is there a product number on the 3M Premium filler. I called Hamilton but and they had several options to choose from. Please advise.
  Thank you
  Capt.
  Bob Wakefield

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  Jeffrey Evans says:

  Could this be done in fall after pulling the boat for the winter, or is there some magic in letting it dry out all winter?

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  John Bukowsky says:

  I have a Herreshoff style interior in my Cape George 34 Cutter. She is a wood boat in a fiberglass hull. A hybrid. I am refinishing the teak bright work and white bulkheads. I want to retain it’s beautiful classic look and feel. Choosing a paint is not simple. I was considering Petit Satin EZCoat off white not because it is easy but because of low VOCs. I am uncertain if this is best choice. I don’t want super bright white (refrigerator white looking interior). I also want non-yellowing. I thought to ask the experts at OCH and its readership. I realize many options exist, to include a quality household interior paint. All thoughts and suggestions welcome.

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  Jeffrey Evans says:

  This was a nicely done and helpful video. I’d love to see a companion video on Rick’s preparation and application techniques for the varnish part of his project.

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  Will Heyer says:

  Here in the Bahamas on our Abaco Dinghy’s I use underwater seam compound …well… for the bottom. The first three planks down from the gunwale do not move much even with the drying out we have in the off season so we use west system “Spooge” or polyester . ….It is so often about what we can get here…!

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  Kenneth Scott says:

  I notice you are recommending 3M Marine Premium filler for small seams, this is a vinyl ester, but you apparently recommend Pettit 7110 for larger seams on a wooden boat (this makes sense). I just had my Seagoer Yawl, Noe Mar, sanded down to wood, and 6 coats put on it. But the painter told me I needed to fill & fair some of the seams when I haul out again next summer. Since this has already had the seams filled, should I just skim it with the 3M? Or primer those areas, use the Pettit & sand & repaint. They did a beautiful job, but very spendy, so I will be doing it from now on. Thanks, Maynard & Rick

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    Maynard Bray says:

    Hi Kenneth,
    For seams, of the two products, I’d use the Pettit seam compound because it remans flexible, it’s a one-part substance so you can use it right out of the can, and unlike the 3M, it won’t cure before you’re finished knifing it in. But it takes a day or so to skin over and be ready for painting. But if you’re not working to a tight schedule, I think a WEST epoxy and #310 Microlite mix is the very best. Granted, there’s mixing (resin and hardener) required, then more stirring when you add the Microlite powder. But you have a say in the viscosity (the more Microlite, the thicker it becomes); its slow curing allows plenty of time for knifing it in; it sands easily, sticks well, and it remains reasonably flexible afterwards. Its only drawback is the overnight cure.

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      William Allen says:

      Maynard,
      Went to find at Jamestown…Do you mean West 410 filler (instead of “310 Microlite”)?

      • 

        Maynard Bray says:

        My mistake. I meant 410, not 310. Sorry for the mixup.
        Maynard

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  John Wujack says:

  When applying multiple coats of paint to a taped edge, can multiple coats be applied without having to remove the tape?

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  David Young says:

  I’d love to know what kind of brushes Rick uses for tipping. I have been using so-called slim badger hair brushes but they are obviously not as supple as the brush Rick is using. This is a great reference video for those of us that like to paint our own boats. I would also be curious if Rick has an opinion about using Awlgrip primer. I like it because it is harder and, I suspect, more stable than most conventional primers.

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    Maynard Bray says:

    Hi Dave,
    Rick uses a Redtree Badger hair-style brush. It’s in the list of materials and tools at the end of the video in “Navigate Further” as follows: The brush is a 1-1/2” Redtree Badger-style China bristle, available from Hamilton Marine or Jamestown Distributors.

    Sorry not to see you at the WB Show or at ERR this summer. Hope you are enjoying it anyhow.

    Best,
    Maynard

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      David Young says:

      Thanks Maynard. I was in both places but we missed. Great summer. Lots of time afloat on Nimble and my Silver Heels replacement. We have a place in East Blue Hill so maybe we’ll run into each other yet.

      David

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  Mike O'Brien says:

  Oops! Idiot alert! Just posted my question and saw the materials list under the video link :-).
  Any comments or advice still welcomed!
  Mike

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  Mike O'Brien says:

  Great video, as usual! Can anyone elaborate on the fillers used in this video? I have a 1947 Chris Craft U-22 planked with Spanish Cedar. The seems/gaps between them are fairly “significant.” (1/16-1/8). This spring I used Lifecalk and it has squeezed out after soaking and looks ugly. Any comments appreciated!
  Thanks,
  Mike O’Brien

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  Denis Nobil says:

  Always great to watch experts at work. They make it look easy. Was Rick’s roller-tray lined with something? What was it? I imagine it makes cleaning the tray afterwards very easy.

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    Tony Jarvis says:

    Hi Denis. He lined his tray with aluminim foil. He does this so he can re-use the tray immediately for another job after throwing out the paint covered aluminum. I find this wasteful, simply sending more garbage to the landfill. I dont use paint tray liners of any type. In my one man boat repair business I’ve been using the same 4 paint trays for about 20 years. When the paint job is done, brush out all the excess paint back into a can and hang the tray to dry. It will be ready for use the next day. Because you are essentially starting with a “fresh” tray every time, you can do paint one day and varinish the next. Epoxy, water based paint, bottom paint etc all work, however using a solvent coating after a water base is problematic. After a period of regular use give the tray a twist, the hard plug will pop out, and you are left with a “new” tray. This is made easier by using a water based coating first. (It doesnt stick to the plastic tray) I did this a few yeas back and the paint that showed as the first was the one I used to paint my baby daughters bedroom. She’s now 16.

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  Richard Greenway says:

  A good little tip tucked away in there is the possability of adding a little varnish to the paint to improve the gloss. Getting a good gloss has been one of my biggest problems and I have tried all kinds of paints with mixed results. I have done lots of prep but the obvious answer for me is that undercoat block sanding.
  Thanks for the great video.

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  James Ferguson says:

  Great information and just what I needed to help educate and motivate me with my spring prep work for our Haven 12 1/2. Have since re-launched and enjoying sailing here in NC.

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  David Carper says:

  You know, the content of all your videos are very informative. The workmanship being discussed is always professional with nary a flaw. So we benefit greatly when we do our own maintenance. But what I get from watching your videos is simply ,a peaceful easy feeling. And I thank you for that ; )

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  William Ackerman says:

  Thank you for the video. It was very informative, and you make it look like it’s not such a daunting task. My question is… afterwards, should it be waxed? And, if so, how long before waxing?

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    Maynard Bray says:

    Hi William,
    There’s no need to wax a wooden boat’s topsides after painting them; with gloss marine paint like Rick uses, they’ll keep their shine all season. Besides, when it comes time to repaint next year, the new paint won’t stick if there’s any wax residue remaining.

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  Wayne Bartow says:

  Wondeful video and such a nice easy tempo. I learned a lot and hope i can duplicate the process with my 35 ft Weekender. Well done! WB

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  Dave Johnson says:

  Great Video, especially the information on fillers, sanding, thinning paint and mixing white and black to obtain a grey base. You do beautiful work Rick. You obviously do what you love and love what you do.

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  Harry Bryan says:

  Rick or Maynard,
  Where I live it is not easy to get a special prodict such as interlux #333 thinner on short notice. What is the best alternative, varsol, turpentine, generic paint thinner, Penetrol ? Why is the 333 preferred?
  Thanks for another informative video.

  • 

    Maynard Bray says:

    Hi Harry,
    Interlux 333 has worked so well for so any years for me that I can’t imagine a substitute, but Rick tells me that K2 kerosene works about as well as 333, providing one doesn’t mind the fact that it slightly diminishes the shine of gloss paint.

  • 

    John Hughes says:

    I know I’m not Rick or Maynard, but I have a partial solution to your problem: look at the MSDS for the product. (http://datasheets.international-coatings.com/msds/Y333_usa_eng_A1.pdf). In this case, it’s listed as 50-75% kerosene and 50-75% naptha. There’s only one mix that makes both of those ranges work, namely 50-50. So now you know what’s in it. My only thought about these two is that I’d be sure to filter each of them really well before use — the kerosene from that hurricane lamp in the shed might not be a good choice. :) I’d probably run them through a varnish filter with a scrap or two of old tee-shirt above it, because that’s what’s handy in my basement.

    I’m sure that other solvents will work, too, but the chemists at Interlux really have spent time trying to make their products work, so doing your best to use the combinations they recommend, even if it’s not their brand-labelled mix, seems like a good idea.

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  Peter MacLearn says:

  Excellent video. Learned a lot. I also want to thank you for the detailed summary including the specifics on the tools and materials. Very good job all around.

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  Kenneth Workinger says:

  Beautiful boat and a beautiful setting. One item that jumped out at me was how Rick is using a succession of materials from three (four if you thin the topcoat) different manufacturers! My guess is that tech reps from each of these companies would disapprove. Clearly based on Rick’s experiences there are no issues.

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  Gustavo Krause says:

  awesome! This sailboat is too beautiful.

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    Lyle Russell says:

    Where do you get your soft sanding pads? What brand etc. Thanx.

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  Anders Teigen says:

  Great video, thanks! Any advice on filler when having varnished topsides? My boat has a glued carvel hull (mahogany). I’m considering giving the hull colour to maybe simplify things in the springtime, but I must admit it’s also nice to show off the beautiful wood, finished as original.

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  Doug Wood says:

  That was great to watch. Masterful work, Rick!

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  dan anderson says:

  Great video for me as our Winter was very hard on my boat. And if Spring ever get here in New England, I’ll haul out and and be painting.