Marine Diesel Engines, Part 1 – Overview of the Raw Water System
October 30, 2014
Email this Video to a FriendUnderstanding the raw water cooling system of your boat’s diesel engine will help you keep her running cool.
Keeping your marine diesel engine running cool is explained here: From the raw water inlet through the seacock, the strainer, and the heat exchanger and then out the the wet exhaust, water from outside the boat circulates to keep the engine coolant cool.
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Comments, Thoughts or Suggestions?You can leave a comment or question for OCH and members below. Here are the comments so far…
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19 Responses So Far to “Marine Diesel Engines, Part 1 – Overview of the Raw Water System”
SEE THE WHOLE SERIES:
To see the whole series, you can click "Marine Engines" in the breadcrumb trail above (just below the video).
Equipment and tools are readily available to maintain your diesel engines from marine suppliers like Hamilton Marine and Jamestown Distributors. There you’ll find Jabsco impellers, Groco separators, the correct hose clamps and hoses, and more.
A special note of appreciation to Mack Boring & Parts Company for lending us the Yanmar marine diesel engine seen in the video. It was Mack Boring (named for founder Ed “Mack” McGovern, Sr. and his post-WWI specialty) that, back in 1974, imported the very first Yanmar diesels, which have since spread throughout our boating world.
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Antonio (Tony) Osse says:
Another wonderful series. We´re building a Black Crown 30 (Sam Devlin´s design) at home as a family project. Already bought the “prescribed” engine, a Volvo Penta D3 200HP with a STERNDRIVE….. Any chance to cover this type of system and, above all, how to install a new engine + sterndrive to a new boat!!! Thanks a LOT to all of you involved with OCH… Fantastic idea and wonderful result! Oh, and talking about wives, mine got the engine above as a 25th aniversary…and was happy with that!!! hahaahahahah
Captain Nemo says:
Terrific video sir! I’m looking forward to watching the rest, but I have a few questions for you, if I may.
1) In your opinion, which type of heat exhaust core configuration is more efficient and/or lasts longer – the Plate type or the Tube type, or does it not matter?
2) some of the hoses on the engine in the video didn’t have double clamps. Ought there to be a double clamp on all hoses, no matter which type or where they lead?
3) Why the HECK do they make mufflers out of PLASTIC? I would think the exhaust gases would definitely melt plastic!
Thanks
G Mactye
Herve Depow says:
I wasn’t sure which video to comment on so chose the first although they were all extremely helpful. Having the same Yanmar used in the demos was an added benefit. This year I changed the oil filter, oil including the transmission, replaced both the primary and secondary fuel filters, and winterized the motor myself and felt confident in doing so thanks to these wonderful videos. I had Calder’s book, the operating manual, and my iPad watching the videos during the process. Sure, it took a while, but I did it and now feel more confident by knowing the motor better. During our holiday in New Brunswick my wife and I made a day trip to Brooklin, Maine and had a fantastic day. Thanks for your excellent work.
Steven Bergmann says:
I have taken a 4 hour diesel course and this video series taught me more and was worth the membership fee. Extremely clear explanation. I would like to see part 4 and also I would love a similar series on the fuel system from the tank, throught the filters. Wonderful clear explanation. Kudos!
Steve Stone says:
Hey Steven, your holiday wish is coming true. Kevin is editing the diesel fuel system video(s) as we speak. Exactly what you’ve asked for. Hope you’ll enjoy those as much as you did these.
Al Velieri says:
I enjoyed the videos but was disappointed that the remainder of the exhaust system was not addressed. Most of my questions arise from the manifold to the exhaust thru hull.
william kohler says:
Real good job.
Dave Paroulek says:
Glad to hear there are more videos like these in the works. As first-time sailboat owner, this will be my first time winterizing and this type of info is very useful (and timely)! Thanks!
Stephen Wolfer says:
I’ve watched videos 1 through 3 so far, and I’m really happy with what I’m learning. Great job! I look forward to the next set you release.
Thomas Cockrell says:
Excellent job! I look forward to the upcoming videos in this series. I hope I can keep my clothes clean too. ;>)
Are the caps for sale?
Tom Lucas says:
Wow, thanks, great information. Where did you get the hat?
Roger Johnson says:
I appreciate the “Happy wife, happy life” comment! They don’t look like my boat working clothes either, but you gotta do…
And thanks for this series. Any chance of covering fuel bleeding and such?
Steve Stone says:
You bet, Roger, there might be 8 to 10 videos in this series before we’re done. Kevin is editing them, and we’ll release them over the coming weeks.
Conbert Benneck says:
Hi Steve, Our daughter’s boyfriend had to have the same boat as we had; a Tripp-Lentsch 29 with an Atomic 4 gasoline engine. He found, and bought one in Rochester, NY. With the exuberance of youth he said, “Connie let’s go up this weekend and start to bring the boat back to Staten Island, NY”. I told him, let’s go to Rochester and first see what sort of problems you bought before we commit to the delivery trip. In Rochester, the first thing I checked on his new “old” boat was what was at the bottom of the fuel tank? I found a lot of red grit and water…. What’s this? After lots of pumping of water and dirt into a Mason jar, my hand pump was finally delivering clean fuel. I then went to the fuel pump and finally cleaned the carburetor. Eventually, while refueling, I found that someone had replaced a brass nipple under the fuel filler plate with a steel nipple that had rusted on the inside surfaces and dropped rust into the fuel tank for years. The moral of the story, is check the contents at the bottom of your fuel tank so that you “know” that you have clean fuel when the chips are down.
Zachary Bicknell says:
Been working on my own tripp 29 for the last year, hard to find much information on these boats.
Al Velieri says:
Why is the mixing elbow above the manifold? I have recently installed a yanmar engine in my sailboat and when I started the engine water entered the cylinders. The manifold looks to be in god shape with no cracks. The boat is out of the water so i filled a 5 gallon jug and raised it above the engine to feed the raw water pump. Still have no clue as to how water filled the cylinders. Any advise.
Jon Bardo says:
Al,
The exhaust elbow mixing valve is higher than the exhaust manifold to prevent water from backing up into the manifold and then into the cyl. that has the exhaust valves open.
The flooding of your engine may have occurred due to the 5 gallon jug being higher then your exhaust lines highest point. Whenever the sea water is higher then the loop ,water can enter the system causing flooding of the engine. This can also happen Whenthe engine fails to start and cranking continues!! Best of luck, hope this helps, JCB
Jon Bardo says:
Check my comment on Diesel video 2. Another real happening!
JCB
Al Velieri says:
that is what a friend told me but i didnt think that there would be enough pressure to make a difference. i guess it does. thank you for your response i really appreciate it….keep the engine videos coming,there is a great need for them. most of us are continually scratching our heads.