Preview: How to Paint a Boat, Part 1 – Getting the Right Topside Paint

11 Responses So Far to “How to Paint a Boat, Part 1 – Getting the Right Topside Paint”

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  jerry lawrence says:

  I have a cedar canoe that has clear varnish over fibreglass. I would like to paint the inside so as not to have to refinish it every few years. What would be the longest lasting paint to use?

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    George McNeir says:

    The first 10 years Of our AA-plywood boat of 30 feet was sprayed with Awlgrip with preparation by the book by a licensed professional. It was still giving outstanding performance when I changed up the length of the boat to 40 feet. Wanting to be able to touch the boat up after hurricanes (she has weathered 6 so far) I wanted a more friendly 2 part urethane more amenable to a brush and tipping repair. I switched to the PPG 2 part that lent itself more to hand repair later, having less need for a full sand out with a number of preparations before final recoating.

    The PPG is stellar because it is also a commercial coating used on all types of wood or metal under widely varying temperatures, moistures, salt and corrosive environments. The gloss is excellent, showing well after nearly twenty years.

    The particular name of the PPG paint may have changed but what I used was a snow white full gloss. It would be best to consult PPG to get the latest incarnation. The pain is barely less expensive than the Awlgrip etc. paints, more forgiving to apply with great results/comments. From years of some very tough weather, I swear by PPG.

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  Rudolph Bar says:

  Thanks for a very useful article. When talking about paint systems I wonder why no mention is made of primers? No mention is made either of clear polyurethane top coats and buffing/ polishing for truely smooth and long lasting finishes

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  MANUEL GRACIA COCA says:

  Bello
  The old paint of my Puma 23′ deck is peeling off and I ‘d like to know what I’ll do, thanks

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  Michael Latham says:

  Using a single part urethane i ended up with a blotchy area. Is there a method that I can use to seemlesly (sp?) repair the blotchy area without repainting the entire surface?

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  william soetebier says:

  I watched the whole series and learned a lot. Thanks! My question is slightly off topic but here goes.
  I am curious about bottom paints. Specifically for plywood epoxy boats that would only be used in fresh water and mostly trailered. Thanks in advance.

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  J.D. Bondy says:

  When using the 2-part polyurethanes, is it pretty much obligatory to mix the whole can of paint and the whole can of catalyst, then use it as efficiently as possible, or is it possible to use only part of each and save the rest for another job? Thanks.

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    Thomas Pelsue says:

    I’ve had great luck using smaller amounts of 2 part paint by measuring the paint and catalyst with 2 60cc syringes. One for the paint and one for the caatalyst. Its accurate, and you can use as much or as little as you need.

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  Erik Sayce says:

  Loved this one, I’m getting charged up to paint my bright topsides this year. Varnish and I have had a love hate thing going, but I’m open to bringing a little Polyurethane paint into my life this year.

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  Peter Marshall says:

  Excellent! Very accurate descriptions. When using a flattening agent, make sure you stir, stir then stir some more and then stir again to avoid getting blotchy spots. Flattening agents typically work by changing the pigment structure, thereby altering how light reflects back at you. By mixing the product into the paint thoroughly, you work to ensure even distribution which will provide you with stunning results and a look that’s…just right.

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    Erik Sayce says:

    Thanks Peter!