Here’s another example of no-fuss maintenance in painting a Beetle Cat sailboat. (You can see the first example by viewing our No-Fuss Maintenance video, with Brian Larkin.)
Beetle Cats are easy to care for once they are fixed up—and the three we’ve owned over the past 40 years really needed fixing up! With Punkin, shown here, we go for the basic cosmetics: painted bottom, topsides, deck, and interior—like most of the other Beetles, but we use oil instead of varnish for the spars, coamings and guardrails. This dramatically cuts down on labr. Available time influences how much gets done each year, but
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Steve Spader says:
In my younger years in the ’70’s, I inherited a 1942, 24′ Stout Fellow built in Stamford, CT. It had a Marconi rig with a large cockpit with a small cabin upfront. Because funds were tight, I could not afford to put it in a boatyard but did have access to a private beach. In the fall I would place it on a cradle & haul it up onto the beach. In the Spring I would slide it down the beach part way, take it off the cradle & lay it over on its side to paint one side, then come back the next day to paint the other side! Tides had to be just right to do it in one weekend. Loved that sailboat!!
Preston Keith says:
There are several Beetle cats in Buzzards Bay of course and at least a couple in the Pocasset river. They’re classics. However you should know of the Bigelow kittens built in Monument Beach starting in the early 30’s. They are of similar size but differ in that they have seats, carry about 400 lbs. of lead in the bilge, of slightly higher freeboard, and are Marconi rigged. A few of the hundred or so built have escaped the area, but a dozen or so of them raced every weekend for years in Pocasset. A few are still around and there are a couple of molded fiberglass models that have been from the original mold.
Peter Strock says:
You guys remind me of my cruising chum Mait Edey [Edey and Duff} who could always find an easy way to do a chore. He taught several thin coats rather one heavy one when it came to varnish and oiled spars unless you cruised with the NYYC.
Had it about right I think Probably got the idea from L.Francis himself.
Roxy Darling says:
Anything that can remind us of Mait is a gift. He was a great man and an even greater sailor/thinker. And musician. As Mait always said…Shine on. Thanks for remembering Mait, Peter.
Michael Lehner says:
I used to put antifouling paint on my Hobie 18 the same way–slide it off its trailer onto the grass, flip it over, and paint away–simple, fast, and no working around hull supports.
Jim J says:
Have a Bolger Bobcat (2000 and an 18′ Simmons Sea-Skiff (1988) When they need paint or bottom work they get rolled. The Bobcat as shown the Sea-Skiff just to the point where the side is flat on the ground.
Michael Perdek says:
Hi John,
I have a old fashioned Wildflower 13 footer. It has a plastic hull covering that is colored Black. With a white deck.
The paint is on it is not too fond by the guys at the club, they do not like the color. Could I use some of you paint, Punkin? The boat was inexpensive, but it sails well and motors fine. Could I use some of that Rustolium instead?
Any suggestions? I tried a grey flexible but it does not stick. Maybe leave the hull black?
Mike
Maynard Bray says:
Punkin’s topside color is a mix of bright orange and tan, specifically, Pettit Lobster Buoy Orange and Kirby Taupe—but I think other brands could make the same smoky orange color. These are oil-based paints, but I think you could do the same with latex.
John Clemente says:
You mention using oil instead of varnish. What oil do you use and does it last the season. Did you strip old varnish when first oiled?
Thank you,
John Cemente
Maynard Bray says:
Hi John,
The oil I use is a mix of pine tar and boiled linseed oil, thinned to suit with turpentine. It lasts for at least a season and turns to a kind of flat black after a year or two. When it wears thin, you just brush on some more to freshen it up and protect the underlying wood. It has to go on over bare wood, so if there’s varnish, you’d have to strip it first before applying the oil. The oil mix stays sticky for a while, so around the coaming face where there’s a risk of someone leaning against it, put it on thin or allow a few extra days of drying time. (I guess you could add some Japan dryer to hasten things.) There’s really nothing fussy this; I’ve found it to be a very efficient way of protecting the wood. But you have to abandon the idea of gloss or of showing off the glory of wood.
Hope this helps,
‘Maynard
Maynard Bray says:
The oil is mostly linseed oil (boiled if you need it to dry quickly, and raw if there’s time because it soaks better into the wood), with some pine tar for color and that good smell, and thinned to your chosen consistency with turpentine. One acceptable ratio is 1/2, 1/4, 1/4. This lasts for two or three seasons, but has to be applied over bare wood. In time, it turns black (through mildew, I guess) but never peels.
Nathanael Bray says:
Great pictures! Seaweed makes great padding for protecting the topsides during the roll!
Steve Stone says:
Maynard’s such a cool cat. Can you believe I get to follow these guys around and learn all this stuff? How sweet is that? I’m taking offers for anyone interested in my job. I figure even the starting bid will enable comfortable retirement on my own island.
Ben Fuller says:
Last year I did the new dory bottom by laying it over on the one side then the other ( after scribing in the waterline. I like to do the the topsides first when the boat is right side up, as I can freehand up to a scribed line ok but can’t do it down to the line. I have used the boat hoist in my garage to hoist the flat iron skiff to a nice height but I have also rolled her. If you don’t have a mast, a couple of 2 x 4s at the right length working as props under the gunwhale hold her where you want her.
Duane Muzzy says:
You do have a passion for colors. From pink to pumpkin…what’s next? Duane