Here we are at the stern of a 26′ center-console jetdrive launch that’s under construction at Brooklin Boat Yard. The stern deck on either side of the transom door, the side decks, and forward deck that show here are sub-decks of plywood that are about to be sheathed in teak. The construction is straightforward and typical of many boats we build. The subdeck is 3/8″ ocome plywood laid directly over the deck beams, sheer clamps and carlins—which all are Douglas-fir. It is amazing how a light layer of plywood glued and screwed to the deck frame of any boat stiffens the structure! It takes the place of the countless knees that are found in a traditional deck frame, while providing a watertight surface that can be sheathed—either in canvas or dynel, or clad in 3/8″-think teak, as is being donel here.
. . . sign up to the right to get immediate access to this full post,
plus you'll get 10 of our best videos for free.
Get Free Videos& Learn More Join Now!!for Full Access Members Sign In
Peter Marshall says:
I’m currently working on a decking project using the teak deck system principle of patterning the deck and making panels on the floor, then gluing the panels to the substrate and fitting margins/kings. but over the last six weeks I have been trying to figure out the methods true merits, and seeing how quickly your decks are going down, I begin to question it even more. thanks for the insight!
Eric Blake says:
We use prefabricated teak decks occasionally at BBY, usually only to meet a short build schedule. Fasteners are always trouble in wood construction. In keeping the fasteners out you are increasing the life of the deck in my opinion. No doubt prefabricating sections of deck on the bench to be bagged on in one piece has its merits.
David Klein says:
Beautiful job! I would have enjoyed reading the continuation of the caulking, bunging, sanding and finishing. Maybe that’s another blog?
Eric Blake says:
Check out my new post on more deck details
David Klein says:
In the cabin sole (and elsewhere) you have run your #10 pan heads dead center through your 1 3/4″ strips. Do you go back and bung?
Eric Blake says:
David,
I again apologize for the delay, for newer posts I get an e-mail when anyone comments on a blog. This system wasn’t in place when these blogs were written. Yes, once the glue is set we remove the screws and drill for a 3/8″ teak bung. We cheat and buy these all made by the bag full through Hamilton Marine. We have recently switched from setting the bungs with epoxy to using Tite Bond 3 with great results.
Best, Eric
David Klein says:
Thanks Eric, I understand on the delay. I know you’re a busy guy and I”m grateful for any help.
Armindo Reis says:
I agree on the teak layout, not having it complicated has enhanced the classic lines and makes it pop. Looks great!
Doug Wood says:
very nice!