Preview: Mastering Epoxy with Russell Brown, Part 6 – Fiberglassing Flat Panels

18 Responses So Far to “Mastering Epoxy with Russell Brown, Part 6 – Fiberglassing Flat Panels”

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  Jud Greer says:

  I’m astonished at the working time Russell gets at 80 degrees. I work outside and use a different epoxy with slow hardener and even at 65 degrees I’m challenged to get the epoxy applied before it goes off. I use small batches too, about 3 table spoons total, which can be a lot of mixing but better than working with jelling epoxy. It is a treat to see a true artisan at work with this material. Perhaps there’s another video comparing different epoxy systems?
  Does Russell use new paint trays every time?

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  Don Silsbe says:

  I love this series! It has upped my game considerably. I am about to start building a CLC Annapolis Wherry. I now want to pre coat and pre glass all my panels prior to stitching. Do you foresee any issues in using this process for this long, slender, glued lapstrake design?

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    Steve Stone says:

    It’s a good question Don, but we’d highly recommend talking to the folks at CLC prior to making any significant modifications like this in how you build their boat. They have excellent phone support and have built MANY of their wherries and seen them wear over years, so we’d follow their recommendations. The PT11 and the Annapolis Wherry are two very different boats with different ability/needs to carry that extra weight/etc.

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      Don Silsbe says:

      Thanks for the reply, Steve. I planned on contacting them, too. I do love the finish you get with this method.

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  Andrew Rotch says:

  I have horrific interludes in the shop as I learn to do epoxy stuff…absurd, messy, costly episodes that leave me covered in sweat and hardening gobs of resin, like trying to glass tape deck joints through a too small deck hatch on a kayak, or watching an assembly lurch and shift right after I finish gluing it carefully together because I hadnt adequately prepared the workspace and some dreadful mishap occurs. These are the hazards of learning unfamiliar arts for me. I seem to have to make a mess, and panic and do things spectacularly badly at first. I watch these videos and they calm me. Russell Brown’s wry smile seems to forgive a multitude of sins. It’s as if he’s saying, you can end up with a good job or a good story, and here’s how you do a good job.

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  KEVIN POWELL says:

  Thank you.

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  Jim Mathieson says:

  How much can the panels curve after 6 oz glassing ? Assume the answer is ….as much as the Dinghy curves ……thanks Russel again ,we are reviewing & rolling up our knowledge of epoxy ,going to try West 107 hardener as well ,love the wood stove in the shop ,cosy!

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    Nate Rooks says:

    Jim – the panels curve to the shape of the boat just fine, and could probably bend a lot more.

    A key point here is that they only have fiberglass on the inside, are then curved to the mold, and THEN the exterior fiberglass is added, creating incredible strength.

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  Michael Mittleman says:

  Russell, absolutely jam-packed with information. The clarity of exposition is a hallmark of this series. Your technique of glassing the panels before installation is brilliant. Would the process extend to panel exteriors as well?

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  Tim Smith says:

  These are the best videos on this subject that I’ve seen anywhere. This series alone is worth the cost of the subscription. Thank you.

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  Michael Seibert says:

  This is a great series of videos . . . having just gone through a maddening varnishing marathon on my Lightning, I hope it will include one or more videos on varnishing. I would love to know how I could have avoided the problems I ran into.

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    Nate Rooks says:

    Michael – Varnishing won’t exactly be included in this series, as Russell does not use varnish on his boats – only WEST SYSTEM 207 epoxy, even for bright finishes.

    However, his techniques for gloss coating with epoxy (in a soon to be released part of this series) should transfer to varnish well, including his methods for rolling, tipping, and some occasional use of a heat gun…!

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      Ryan Goggans says:

      Is UV not a big issue for the bright epoxy finish?

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        Bruce Lyle says:

        207 is designed to be UV stable. 205/206 are not.
        From West System page.

        “An ultraviolet inhibitor in 207 Special Clear Hardener helps provide a beautiful, long-lasting finish when used with quality UV filtering varnish. 105/207 cures clear and colorless.”

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  John Wujack says:

  Russell, Thanks for sharing your experience in this great series. I heard you say that “because this part is to be finished bright, I wouldn’t thicken the epoxy.” Does that also mean that if you were planning on painting, you might add a filler to the second coat? If so, what would be your choice for a filler and would you still plan on a third (sealer) coat of epoxy? With appreciation, John

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    Nate Rooks says:

    Hi John – we will go over some more fill and gloss coating tips in a later video when we do the exterior, but short answer is yes – when painting, Russell uses some WEST SYSTEM 410 microlight fairing filler in the second coat, fairs it out, and still does a third gloss coat before paint.

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  Scot Copeland says:

  I’ve built a number of ply/epoxy boats, including a SeaClipper trimaran, and I learned a number of things from this video! Thank you, Russ.

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  michael waters says:

  This series of videos I find inspiring for the clarity and calm organisation which Russell Brown brings with to me with his clear preparations and equipment details to a very sticky topic (and one I have personally come unstuck with before).