Preview: Building the Oonagh Rowing/Sailing Dinghy, Part 4 – Attaching the Keel to the Molds & Transom

23 Responses So Far to “Building the Oonagh Rowing/Sailing Dinghy, Part 4 – Attaching the Keel to the Molds & Transom”

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  Jeffrey Wright says:

  Can I substitute Okume ply for the Meranti ply in the kit? If so, what is the upcharge? Thanks.
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  thomas mitchell says:

  I just started my kit Oonagh. I too have to order the screws. Did you ever come up with the list of sizes and quantities?
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  jeffrey chabot says:

  Hey Steve you guys are doing a fantastic job on the boat show, really enjoying those video’s just wondering when the next video for OONAUGH is coming out, I promised my grandchildren we would launch this spring and I can teach them to sail. Its been a long time since the last video. We all would like to see the next set of videos about two weeks apart then maybe we could get her in the water, thanks again, Jeff
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  Scott Berger says:

  Does anyone know why there are pre-drilled holes in the bow and stern transoms?
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    Steve Stone says:

    Hi Scott. There’s one in the bow transom to run a painter (bow line) through. I don’t think there is one in the stern transom (but that wouldn’t be the first time I was wrong today).
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      Scott Berger says:

      Hi Steve. Sorry, I wasn’t clear about my question. In addition to the hole for the painter in the bow there are two much smaller pre-drilled holes in both the bow and stern transoms. They seem to line up with the height of the fore and aft benches. They are not indicated on the plans. Why are they there? Do they simply Mark the height of the bench cleat? Thanks, Scott
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        Steve Stone says:

        Hey Scott. Those holes are for a screw to connect the transom to a cleat between the ladder frame and transom. The end grain is hard to screw into, so Doug offset those holes so you can attach a cleat to the ladder frame and the screw the transom into the cleat as a temporary holder.
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  Roland Aube says:

  Also, I second Bob Donaldson’s request for a material list of bronze screws, copper rivets and other fittings. Suggested sources would also be great and useful, especially for those of us who live far away from boatbuilding centers like yours.

  Expect to take delivery of my OONAGH kit before the end of the month. Hope the Canadian Border people will allow my commercial carrier to bring it across the border.

  Happy New Year to all the good people on the Off Center site: amazing and entertaining source of information for all of us (armchair?) boat builders. The videos show off the talent and dedication of dedicated and talented boatbuilders. To a man (woman) they are all good teachers and obviously masters of their craft,

  Roland
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    Steve Stone says:

    Hi Roland. Thanks for purchasing the kit. Please see the “NOTE” above regarding anticipated release schedule of the videos. We’re checking re: a list of fasteners, etc. and will let you know what we find.
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      Ted Guild says:

      Any progress on the materials list? I’ve been wondering which size fasteners and nearly at point of needing them.
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        Maura Mulcahy says:

        Ted – I think Steve suggested a trip to Hamilton Marine which I plan to do on my day off to educate myself on fasteners with a helpful employee there. Best of luck!
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  Bill Theurkauf says:

  You can make a compact bevel gauge from an old hacksaw blade. Break the blade to the length of the leg you want and rivet together through the mounting holes, using a copper nail and burr. I read about these in Building Small Boats, by Greg Rossel, and they are one of my favorite shop tool. Geoff Kerr may have used one of these building the Caladonia.
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  Sean Scully says:

  I guess I was not the only one wondering on buying one of those bevel gauges, mine are big and bulky. Not for fine planes of a plan. .I’ve been using dividers, and they suck.
  Thank you Kit for showing me a new trick
  Sean
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  Bob Donaldson says:

  Can you give us a list of the different size bronze screws required and their quantities? They are pretty pricy to be buying a whole assortment, not knowing what I will need.
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    Maura Mulcahy says:

    Bob – curious what you ended up using.
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  jeffrey chabot says:

  What material would Kit recommend for the permanent blocks on the stern and bow transoms
  The middle ones are just temporary so pine would work for those I think.
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    Steve Stone says:

    Doug talks to the point of “hardwoods” in the materials list that comes with the plans. These particular pieces are semi-structural at the intersection of several key parts of the boat (and at at place where they may take direct impacts or absorb some of the shock of one) so they may take some significant forces over time. A good medium-density wood such as douglas fir or mahogany would work. Good to have a bit of a supply of tight/straight grained douglas fir around the shop when building any boat. Given their size it’s probably more about what’s laying around the shop vs. buying just the right piece. But wood that takes fastenings well and bonds well with epoxy, not soft wood like pine or woods that aren’t good with epoxy such as oak.
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  jeffrey chabot says:

  Steve just want to say kit is a natural teacher thanks ever so much for creating these video’s she explains everything in great detail and she is fun to do this boat with her. She makes you feel she is talking directly to you, plus I’ve learned a new word woonkie LOL thanks Kit.
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    David Tew says:

    I understand Kit is a former apprentice at The Apprenticeshop. It seems their graduates have gone on to be as good at teaching as building.
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      David L Schroeder says:

      I agree–Kit is an outstanding teacher! I am a retired teacher, and principal who observed teachers for 30+ years. Kit has been demonstrating both her building and teaching expertise! Thank you to Off Center Harbor for creating these wonderful videos!
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  Trisha McElroy says:

  Wooden boat store has those bevel’s
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  John Crossman says:

  wheare can i purchase the bevel square in the video
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    Martin Devine says:

    It looks like a Shinwa Bevel Guage. Available all over.