Preview: Building the Oonagh Rowing/Sailing Dinghy, Part 6 – Preparing for Planking

20 Responses So Far to “Building the Oonagh Rowing/Sailing Dinghy, Part 6 – Preparing for Planking”

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  Lou Kimball says:

  I’m working from the kit, and I was frustrated to find that my “Set Up Notes” sheet, dated 11/15/2019 is not to scale. It was incorrectly printed, the image is smaller than the 24×36 sheet, showing wide margins all round. The other sheet with the set up drawing (section through the boat) dated 3/20/2012 IS to scale, but of course that drawing is for those builders not using the kit, I presume. could you please send me a properly printed sheet? Thanks. Lou Kimball PO Box 97, Harpswell, Me. 04079

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    Maynard Bray says:

    Hi Lou, The sheet you refer to comes with the kit, not the plan set. Doug drew it in order to let kit buyers know what pieces the kit contains, that there are a four pieces of plywood that have to be joined together to two, and that there is some other long stuff that builders can get from their local lumberyard. It is not a drawing that requires scaling, so as long as the text is legible, you should be all set.

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  Gregory walsh says:

  Steve – suggested size of bronze FHWS for bottom plank-to-keel fitting on the Oonagh skiff?
  Assume these are not to be bunged as wood too thin??
  thanks ,
  Greg Walsh

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    Maynard Bray says:

    As will be clear in the next episode, the bottom panel-to-keel is fastened with 5/8” number 8 flat head wood screws, with 7/8” number 8s at the two transoms.

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      Maura Mulcahy says:

      Sounds terrific! Can’t wait to see the vid!

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      Mike Justice says:

      That’s the first time I ever saw a pencil line drawn under a batten/plank and that same mark wound up on top of a plank when the batten was removed.
      Some kind of David Copperfield magic I guess.

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  Bob Donaldson says:

  If anyone is interested I started a blog to document my progress in building Oonagh.
  https://house-doc.net/Oonagh/

  Bob Donaldson

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  jeffrey chabot says:

  Hey Steve I am working on the mast and boom and the sailing aspect of the boat between videos, can you tell me where I can find the hardware they call out I need to find a 3/16 6 inch long bronze rivet and also a number 10 rivet which I believe is a hollow pipe, copper, that a line goes through on the mast in the boom is explained on the print. Can you possibly tell me where I can locate these? I tried Jamestown and they don’t have it and also Spartan Marine and they don’t have them, can you help me out? Can’t wait for the next video so I can start planking.

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    Steve Stone says:

    From Doug Hylan:

    That rivet is so long that you will need to go to copper rod instead of starting with the more typical rivet. You can get it from McMaster Carr on line, part #8966K3. If you have never dealt with McMaster, you will find it a pleasure — anything under the sun, delivered quickly.

    You could also use silicon bronze for this rivet if it is easier to find, but you will need to anneal the ends to make them soft enough to peen over. Just heat to dull red with a torch and let cool.

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      jeffrey chabot says:

      Thanks that’s a huge help can’t wait for the next video I want to get planking.

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  Sean Scully says:

  I’m curious why it is not designed as a puzzle boat using thinner light weight materials? would seem faster to put together. just as strong, and a lot lighter. Less fixturing and time? CNC costs would be the same. I know building from the plans thicker wood is more for giving. Can you list the pro’s and con’s of both method’s?

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    Steve Stone says:

    It’s a good question Sean. The designer likes scarf joints better than puzzle joints for a variety of reasons. The same goes for the weight and thickness of materials, as the combination of those make a boat that works, feels and even sounds like it should to him. i.e. Lighter boats with thinner plywood have a completely different feeling and performance. i.e. They can be much more tippy when stepping aboard from the mothership which was one thing the designer was trying to reduce. The list goes on, and so I guess the short answer is that it would be a very different boat with lighter thinner materials.

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  Peter Brackenbury says:

  Ok, I knew it had something to do with a don’t plane beyond line. I just couldn’t quite see how that line would help. I think I have it now. I will rewatch the video again as well. Glad I can do that over and over.

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  Maura Mulcahy says:

  I’m plugging along and need to ask a silly question I can’t seem to find – if I am using 316 SS Screws – is there any size guideline? I’ve nearly finished with the keel and this last comment /question def. helped.

  And – is the screw appropriate (on a limited budget)? TIA

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    Kit Macchi says:

    316 should be fine, especially if encapsulated in epoxy. They are an inexpensive alternative for sure, but make sure there aren’t any where you might be cutting later. Use the same size as the bronze #8 or #10.

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  Peter Brackenbury says:

  When bevelling the keel, I don’t really understand what the batten line helps with. Does it help somehow to determine a line between molds? I can’t seem to visualize what marking that line does. Thanks Again.

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    Michael Seibert says:

    I think the batten is used to create a line between molds that is even with the top of the molds.

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    Steve Stone says:

    Yes, and just to build on Michael’s comment above, you can then use that line and the line on the centerline of the keel as your “don’t plane beyond” guidelines as you’re beveling your keel.

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      Peter Brackenbury says:

      Thanks Michael and Steve (again!) I replied above.

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      Peter Brackenbury says:

      Yes, I see now, Kit is marking the edge of the keel, not the bottom! I get how that line establishes a stopping line for the bevel between molds.