Preview: How to Build a Wooden Boat – AROHA, Part 12 – Diagonal Planking with Plywood

16 Responses So Far to “How to Build a Wooden Boat – AROHA, Part 12 – Diagonal Planking with Plywood”

• 

  Jay Knight says:

  As you describe the layup of the 3 ply, looking over your shoulder, that is absolutely a beautiful hull. Gorgeous shape!

• 

  Bruce LePage says:

  Absolutely great. We built our last lobster boat Cold Molded, wished we had seen this video beforehand.

  • 

    Kathleen Pool says:

    Can you explain why there is no need or no advantage to vacuum bagging one layer to another. Seems like a perfect way to get uniform pressure on the bonding epoxy.

• 

  Robert Titone says:

  I am looking for a vedio you put out on reading Charts. How can i see it again.
  Tks. Bob Titone

  • 

    Steve Stone says:

    Hi Robert. Here a link to Part 1 of our 3-part video series on Navigation:
    https://www.offcenterharbor.com/videos/coastal-navigation-part-1-charts-buoys/

• 

  Bill Theurkauf says:

  Great video. I am curious about the advantage of dry fitting first. Pulling all of those staples and getting the planks back in the right place is quite a bit of work. Glueing as you fit would seem more efficient. Does dry fitting help avoid making hard to fix mistakes that would propagate to all the downstream planks? Some other reason to dry fit first?

  • 

    andrew donald says:

    Big advantage when you have a team of workers – don’t have to stop/start waiting for goo to cure. But home builder can fit a few and glue em in one session then come next day carry on with next planks .

  • 

    Steve Stone says:

    Hey Bill. Disregard the comment about dry fitting all three layers with staples. That shouldn’t have made it in the video and we have removed it. Dry fitting one layer with little nails is easy and makes a lot of sense for a variety of reasons, mainly you get the planks to fit edge to edge/etc without smoodging glue all over the place.

• 

  Larry Cheek says:

  Another very well organized and information-rich presentation. Thanks, Eric. One comment/question: Intuitively, a 12 mm or 1/2″ hull seems very light for a boat of this size. What’s your thinking?

  • 

    Eric Blake says:

    Larry,
    at first glance 1/2″ thick planking seems light in a traditionally built hull of this size but wood composite is a different thing all together. It is the triple planked hull over longitudinal stringers, rugged sheer clamp and chine, tied into pretty evenly spaced ring frames. This type of construction keeps the weight down and produces a remarkably strong structure. As lightly built as she is, the boat is remarkably stiff and strong.
    Best, Eric

    • 

      David Tew says:

      How will/did you get her out of the Odd Fellows Hall?? I’ve not seen a big enough door there….

• 

  Rich Dodson says:

  Thank you Eric and video team! I am learning a lot!

• 

  andrew donald says:

  Is it possible to climb under the hull and clean the squeeze-out? Another great video Eric , thanks

  • 

    andrew donald says:

    Do you fair between layers of ply?

    • 

      Eric Blake says:

      A bit yes but the veneer thickness of the plywood is so thin it is best to not burn through them if possible and fill and fair out the low spots with low density filler. The method is very self fairing as you work through the second and third layers.
      Best, Eric

• 

  Glenn Holland says:

  Eric, Thanks for this description of the cold molded method. This seems to be basically the way some eastern NC builders are building their “shapely” sport fisherman hulls, flaired bow and all.