Preview: Re-Sheathing the Deck of a Wooden Boat, Part 2 – Removing the Rails and Fasteners

6 Responses So Far to “Re-Sheathing the Deck of a Wooden Boat, Part 2 – Removing the Rails and Fasteners”

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  Eric Takakjian says:

  Great trick for removing old fastenings!

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  Philip Myer says:

  Hi Eric- great video, did you splash the lobster boat this season ?

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    Eric Blake says:

    Phillip,
    With all the work on Vitals this summer Charlena had to sit this season out.
    It was the carrot at the end of the stick for me. She will be one of the first boats over this spring.
    Hope you are well.

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  David Miller says:

  Thanks for this tip.
  I never thought of using the heat of friction to loosen the seized area of the fastener. When removing fasteners with the head still on, I use the same drift pins sized to just go over the screw head. By filing a spiral onto the end of the drift pin you can make a sharp edge that will cut a hole guided by the screw. This can be helpful when the screw is corroded enough that it leaves a piece in the hole. I refill the hole with expoxy fairing compound and redrill a pilot hole to accept a new screw. This has been used to replace rusting plank fasteners.

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  Jim Bauman says:

  Eric’s spring pin idea reminds me of an old article, maybe in WB(?), where someone filed teeth in the end of a short piece of steel tubing. Then this was chucked in a drill and used to drill around a broken or damaged fastener. Not the same application as in this video but useful none-the-less.

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  Gregory Rice says:

  This is why I subscribe to OCH. Great practical knowledge freely shared by highly skilled, articulate boatbuilders and shipwrights.