Preview: How to Anchor a Boat, Part 1: Anchoring a Small Powerboat with a Yachtsman

23 Responses So Far to “How to Anchor a Boat, Part 1: Anchoring a Small Powerboat with a Yachtsman”

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  john marks says:

  Ian Johnston who anchors a 34′ ex cray boat in the most dangerous and impossible locations on Tasmania’s west coast has a 33kg Rocna as main and a 35kg Fisherman’s anchor. The Fisherman’s has extra large spades bolted on .He deploys this one if expecting heavy weed or rock. I believe its not possible to improve this combo.

  John Marks, Werribee, Australia.

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  David Tew says:

  Ever since I read this post about Yachtsman anchors we’ve used them with chain and rode for our 24′ cabin launch. They are great for our waters and with a kellet (our boat hunts at anchor) and a trip line on the crown leading to a buoy marked ‘Anchor down” we are always able to sleep well, free of other boats anchoring too close. We’ve got a 20# version on the bow and a 50# storm anchor broken down awaiting times whenever it’s needed.

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  Don Silsbe says:

  If you look above, he tells you. (Sheet bend, plus occasionally a half hitch.)

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  David Mitchell says:

  I suspect that the fisherman’s anchor is perfectly fine with small boats, and perhaps using rope (rode) again is ok in relatively shallow waters. However, with larger and heavier displacement yachts and under other sorts of bottom conditions eg, rock, weed, and even a combination of weed/sand/mud, and deeper waters, this kind of anchor really isn’t all that sufficient or practical. If you add strong winds into the equation even less so. Out here in Tassie, really the only suitable anchors these days are ones like the Rocna, Supreme and the Australian designed Sacar Excel of a sufficient weight to boat weight really are the ones to use. Old school ones such as the CQR, Danforth, and Plough just aren’t all that great and are likely to result in a boat under the right conditions, in the anchor dragging. Also with a larger vessel, using chain plus best of all an anchor winch just makes good practical sense. While the 3:1 ratio is fine, under some conditions, so long as you have sufficient room you may actually need a scope ratio of up 7:1. It all depends on the prevailing conditions, the amount of room where you anchor (bay/shore) and how many other boats you are anchoring with.

  But the principles as explained all make good sense.

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  Robert Triggs says:

  I too want to know what knot he used to fix the bow line to the anchor rode. Thanks again for all that you are doing to keep these wonderful skills alive.

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    Jim Tolpin says:

    I’d like to know too! Sure looked quick!

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      Maynard Bray says:

      I used a sheet bend, but having had this knot pull free recently due to slippery nylon, I recommend adding an overhand hitch.

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  George Kruzynski says:

  We cheat and use a kellet with 10 pound lead ball weight when the conditions get iffy or can’t put out 5:1 in busy anchorages. Gets that catenary to a better angle.

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  John Wujack says:

  I should have asked, “what’s the proper size Herreschoff anchor…..”

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  John Wujack says:

  Maynard, I never seem to get a straight answer about anchor size (weight) from retailers. Their answer is always, in essence, the bigger the better. What is a realistic weight for a traditional, full keel sailboat that is 19′ at the water line and displaces a little over two tons (Stone Horse Sloop) and is used (primarily) in very protected, mud/rock bottoms without benefit of mechanical windlass? Thanks for your knowledgeable response in advance. Regards, John

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    Maynard Bray says:

    Hi John,
    For your Stone Horse, a fisherman (or Herreshoff) anchor of 15 to 20 pounds should work fine. They’re hard to find used these days, but you can get a new 17-pounder from J.M. Reineck or a 20-pounder from Kingston. The former makes the best ones (genuine Herreshoff pattern in bronze), but they’re pricy at $650. The galvanized 15# Kingston anchors will work OK, but the pieces (shank & stock) fit together rather loosely. At $309, however, they are half the cost of a Reineck anchor. I believe Historical Arts & Casting of West Jordan, UT, can furnish a very fine 20# Herreshoff anchor in bronze, but I don’t know the price. If you’re interested in learning more about Herreshoff anchors, don’t miss Jim Giblin’s extensive writeup about them on WoodenBoat’s website.

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  Herve Depow says:

  Maynard appears to be using 3 strand nylon rode. Am I correct and, if so, is there a recommended manufacturer. I notice that in many of the videos the lines appear to be 3 strand and look great.

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    Maynard Bray says:

    Hi Herve,
    You’re right in that the anchor rode shown in the video is 3-strand nylon. That anchor rode is so old that I’m not sure who its manufacturer was. For new cordage, I’ve found that New England Rope makes a good product, either in Dacron or nylon.

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  Jerry Wegman says:

  Nice video. I did not see any markers on the rode. You can buy a set for about $5 and attach them to the rode. This is essential, because if you want to put out 45′ (as in the video) you need a way of knowing how much rode has been let out.

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  David Tew says:

  Could the knot be an anchor bend with the tail tucked under one of the lays?

  http://www.netknots.com/rope_knots/anchor-bend

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  Dale Fincher says:

  Very helpful.

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  Alan Peck says:

  Oops, I must apologize to Maynard! He clearly says that if it is blowing hard or other conditions you can anchor off the bow. I must have been distracted during that part of the video. Oh well, I guess it can’t hurt to emphasize the point.

  Part of getting old. I guess.

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    Steve Stone says:

    Thanks for making this point again Alan. It’s important to note.

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  Alan Peck says:

  This new site is a great idea and I have been enjoying it very much. I do have one comment on anchoring that I think needs to be added. First off, let me say that I know that my experience level is minor compared with Maynard Bray. However, I have always heard, that except in calm water and low current conditions that you should never anchor off the rear quarter or stern. I have heard of more than one incident where boats have been swamped anchoring from the stern. I imagine that Maynard figured that would be obvious. But a word to the wise to less experienced folks who might be viewing this site could not hurt. Again, thanks to all who put this site together, it is a terrific idea.

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    Steve Stone says:

    Alan. Very good point. Glad you caught that Maynard covers it on the second go around and we’ll see about making it more obvious.

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  Walter Connolly says:

  Great job Maynard hope to see more of you in the future.

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  Havilah Hawkins says:

  The knot looked like a bowline, or perhaps a sheetbend they are the same knot really. A rolling hitch does not work if you pull the hitch the wrong way along the line it is tied to. Without a strain on a rolling hitch it might not stay tied very long.

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  William Saunders says:

  What knot did he use to attach the bow line to the anchor rode… a rolling hitch?