Use of Drill Taps:
Rigging modern boats with metal spars entails a whole lot of drilling and tapping, usually into aluminum. Riveting is an option, and is very attractive from a profitability standpoint, but machine screws are stronger in both tension and shear, and are removable for inspection or for replacing hardware. But drilling and tappingfor machine screws can take a whole lot more time and skill. I can’t do anything about the need for skill, but I can recommend a way to save time by using a combination drill bit and tap, so you do both operations in a single shot. No more finding the right sized bit, then drilling, then switching to a tap.
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Jim Lawrence says:
Converting an aluminum mast with only external halyards to one with two internal halyards for the main sail and the foresail; one goal is to have room on existing sheave box for a spare (emergency) halyard. Looking for guidance on installing exit plates: min spacing between exit plates, and min spacing between exit plates and winches (both rope and wire). Plan to use the wire winch for the roller furling jib, that I only take down once a season.
Brion Toss says:
Hello,
Worthy project, but beyond the scope of what I would address here. Please be in touch via our site if you would like to arrange a conversation.
Fair leads,
Brion Toss
John Hughes says:
Another trick for centering the top of the mast (assuming there’s a single jib halyard that exits from the center of the forward side of the mast): attach a bosun’s chair to the halyard, and rig it so that when you’re sitting in it, your feet just sit on the deck. Swing the chair over near the starboard uppers, hold yourself there with a hand on the shroud, and have a friend measure from a mark on the shroud (a piece of masking tape, for example) to the chainplate. Repeat for the other side. Why the bosun’s chair? It helps stretch the halyard to a constant length. Works surprisingly well, and with some cleverness/practice, you can get to the point where you can make the measurement yourself.
David Tew says:
Another question: steel fasteners into aluminum spars. What do you bed with to forestall corrosion?
Jack Nobel says:
#2 White Marine grease works well on submerged ground tackle’s shackle pins..would it work aloft?
Colin Sarsfield says:
Tef-gel does a wicked good job on Mimi Rose’s SS fasteners in her aluminum mast.
David Tew says:
Have you used Spartite for mast wedging? I was given a kit and wonder what the pros and cons might be on a Shields class sloop: FG deck, plywood core, 30′ open daysailer, tall mast.
Charles Yarnell says:
Spartite works well for applying even pressure on the mast, cure time can be a problem if its cold out and it can get stuck to the deck collar if not greased. If you pull the mast often I would not recommend it, though sometimes it stays stuck to the mast and can be reused.
Brion Toss says:
If it is installed correctly, a Spartited mast can be removed and replaced very easily.
Fair leads,
Brion Toss