For eight months, our cold-molded wooden cutter CELESTE remained sheltered from Bering Sea storms in the small boat basin at Dutch Harbor in the Aleutian Islands. Our voyage to reach Dutch Harbor had been a true adventure of high winds and calms, tidal currents and deep anchorages, glaciers and mountains, brown bears and humpback whales. (See Passage to the Aleutians.) Then we’d winterized CELESTE after arriving and reluctantly left her for the winter. We returned in early June 2015 and immediately set to work readying our floating home for an Arctic adventure.
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Chris Duff says:
Hi Ellen- Thank you for your wonderful stories of sailing up north. My wife and I live in Port Angeles and are new to sailing. We hope to leave for Alaska in June of 2018. Is Celeste still in PA? We would love to host you and Seth if you need a home cooked meal.
My father told me stories of being in Barrow in 1950 and offering the children candy. Apparently they spat it out but loved the raw bacon that one of the crew thought might be more in line with their native diet. All the best for now, Chris Duff
Ellen Massey Leonard says:
Hi Chris,
I’m so sorry I only just saw your comment – over a year later!! I don’t get notifications of comments to my Guide Posts, but that’s little excuse, especially considering your very generous offer of a home-cooked meal! I wish we could have met you when we were in Port Angeles – we loved it there – so many kind and welcoming people. Did you sail for Alaska last summer? I hope it went well and you enjoyed every minute! I loved your story of Barrow in 1950 – I can well imagine it!
We’ve taken Celeste south now – to the South Pacific, actually – but we may circle back to Alaska at some point down the road – it’s a very special place!
Take care and happy sailing!
-Ellen
clyde leitold says:
Clyde once again. Forgot to tell you that i Love seeing icebergs and the iglu is humanity at some of its best. Enchanting!
Ellen Massey Leonard says:
Thanks very much, Clyde! I absolutely love the Arctic, too – some of the world’s grandest and most enchanting scenery!
clyde leitold says:
Ellen, Clyde on this end. My father a world war 1 veteran was in point barrow for 2 years, 1950 through 1952. I have many many pictures of his stay. I intend 2 see if anybody that was quite young when he was up there still might remember. Thank you so very much for sharing your adventure with all of us. The pictures you shared are great, thank you once again I once about 15 years ago did a passage from san fran to hawii. a 42 ft. cutter rigged sloop. Fair winds my friends, Clyde
Ellen Massey Leonard says:
Hi Clyde,
Fascinating to hear about your father’s stay on Point Barrow – was he working for the DEW Line? I’d love to see the pictures and hear more sometime! If you’d like to get in touch by email, here’s the Contact page on our website: http://gonefloatabout.com/about/contact/
I’d also love to hear about your passage to Hawaii – sounds wonderful!
So glad you enjoyed the article and pictures!
All the best,
Ellen
Robert Knight says:
Wow–impressive trip. Was struck by how similar the lines of Celeste seemed to be to our 35′ Casey Cutter “Owl” (now with new owner). Makes sense that she is a Francis Kinney design. Lovely boat and you guys are plucky sailors for sure.
Ellen Massey Leonard says:
Thanks so much, Robert! I’m not familiar with the Casey Cutter, but having just Googled her, she has lovely lines! While Celeste is certainly not your typical “high latitude” boat, she worked really well for us, and we love looking at her! If you’re interested, I wrote a piece for Ocean Navigator about what worked and what didn’t about her design and equipment for this trip: “An Unusual High Latitude Vessel” – http://www.oceannavigator.com/July-August-2016/An-unusual-high-latitude-vessel/
Philip Myer says:
Great story, what are the details of the lovely wooden boat ?
Ellen Massey Leonard says:
Hi Philip,
Thanks for reading! CELESTE is a custom boat – designed by Francis Kinney in 1985 for a man in Victoria, British Columbia who wanted a classic wooden/cold-molded boat. Bent Jespersen (founder of Jespersen Boat Builders in Sidney, BC) built her. She’s 40ft LOA, 28ft LWL, 11ft beam, 6ft3in draft. She’s done probably around 30,000 miles between our Arctic voyage and the previous owner’s South Pacific voyage.
All the best,
Ellen
Conbert Benneck says:
Thanks for taking an old sailor who had to swallow the anchor to new and fascinating places. Having worked at Thule, Greenland for two dark seasons, and who marveled at the beauty of the arctic weather and it amazing colors, your trip and descriptions is just what a “now” armchair sailor needs.
May you always have fair winds and a hands-breadth of water under your keel
Ellen Massey Leonard says:
Thanks very much, Conbert! I’m glad you enjoyed it! If you’re interested, I’m starting to produce video stories on YouTube of this Arctic voyage – the channel is Gone Floatabout.
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtM02RaRL8kEBxVMfcq-Y8Q
I would absolutely love to sail to Greenland at some point – everyone I know who’s been there has the most wonderful stories to tell!
All the best,
Ellen
Conbert Benneck says:
Ellen, I didn’t get a chance to sail at Thule Greenland. I was busy fixing the USAF fighter-interceptors so that they could operate properly. It seems that the USAF was unaware that magnetic compasses don’t work at the Thule latitude. The first dark season I spent there was diagnosing the problem; and then proving to the USAF that I was right, and that magnetic compasses don’t work up there. The second dark season was spent retrofitting tall the fighter aircraft and making the compass system a setable directional gyro. Then pilots could slave their gyro to the runway heading; fly around in the dark and find their way back to the base. But, as spring came I did get to drive around on the solid ice on Baffin Bay – till pressure ridges fifteen feet high, stopped our excursion.
Ellen Massey Leonard says:
Sounds like a fascinating two winters! Seems incredible that the Air Force wouldn’t realize the difficulties with magnetic compasses up there… Thanks for writing back and telling me a bit more about your time in the North!
Norman Wilkinson says:
Great story,especially for those of us who can’t do it,hope you can do more
Norman wilkinson
Ellen Massey Leonard says:
Thank you, Norman – I’m glad you enjoyed it. I hope we can do more too!
Thomas Klin says:
Brilliant! Having visited Dutch Harbor dozens of times for a work project between 2004-2010, I know first-hand the beauty and wilderness of the land and sea. Thank you for the inspiring account of your adventures. Hope you hoisted a glass at the Grand Delusion.
Ellen Massey Leonard says:
Thank you, Thomas! You made me laugh out loud – Grand Delusion! We not only hoisted a glass but partook of their decadent seafood buffet!
Sam Parrish says:
Thank you for the great tale. As a resident of the Pacific Northwest, it is great to hear about local “adventures”.
Ellen Massey Leonard says:
So glad you enjoyed it, Sam! Where are you in the PNW? Celeste is now in Port Angeles, WA and we are soon to reunite with her!
Sam Parrish says:
I live in Portland, OR. I am hoping (fingers crossed) to get on the water in the San Juan’s this year. I would love the get above the arctic circle, but lack the requisite experience and appropriate vessel. I really enjoyed this post. It seems like so much “sailing media” is focused on warm water cruising. It is refreshing to read about rough cold water, strong gales, and snow capped landscapes. Thank you for sharing your experience with those of us that can mostly only dream of those wild places. Are you considering another attempt on the Northwest Passage?
Ellen Massey Leonard says:
Hi Sam,
I really appreciate your thoughts – which I share! – on the general emphasis on tropical cruising. Although I certainly enjoy sailing in the trade winds, the high latitudes have so much to offer – the people you meet, the challenges of the sailing, and the stunning scenery! Regarding the Northwest Passage: at the moment, no, we won’t do it in the near future. For one thing, you have to rush through so fast that it kind of defeats the purpose of being up in the Arctic (for us, anyway). Secondly, we really love the Pacific Ocean. We’ve fallen head-over-heels for Alaska and the rest of the Pacific NW, and (despite all this Arctic sailing, or maybe because of it?!) we’d like to make another foray to the tropical Pacific islands – we barely scratched the surface in 2007/8. Never say never, though – someday we might want to head to the Atlantic, and the NW Passage could be the way to go! Thanks again for reading and commenting, and maybe we’ll see you in the San Juans!
All the best,
Ellen
David Tew says:
Thanks for reminding me to check their blog and youtube channel : https://gonefloatabout.com/ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtM02RaRL8kEBxVMfcq-Y8Q
John Davies says:
Great seamanship! Beautiful story and pictures. We live at 45 N. on a large lake which froze over several times this season, melting in between.
Ellen Massey Leonard says:
Thank you, John, and here’s hoping your lake will soon be ice-free and ready for boating!
William Seyler says:
Great story. Makes an old man long for adventure!
Ellen Massey Leonard says:
Thanks very much, William!
Frank Harris says:
Wonderful – thanks!
Ellen Massey Leonard says:
Thank you, Frank! Glad you enjoyed it!
John Bukowsky says:
Thank you so much for this wonderful blog post.
Ellen Massey Leonard says:
Thank you for reading! Glad you liked it!