Rudder with motor?

[Tim Economu]

Hi, I’m new to the forum, and just ordered plans, so I might not have all the information I need at this time, and really not sure if this is the place to ask, but I don’t mind making mistakes to learn…

So I am considering an OONAGH that can motor and row and sail, and I’d like to know what others are thinking/doing about using a rudder with a motor. Is the rudder normally not used with motor, or is the motor offset from the centerline, with the rudder on the center of the transom?

Also would like to know if this the right place to ask about wood types. I’ve got some clear Western Red Cedar I’d like to use for some of the features inside the boat, like the seat planks, to help keep weight down.

Thanks,

Tim on Whidbey

[Ted Guild]

Hi Tim,

I’m seldom on here as are others who have completed their builds but received an email notice of your response to an old post of mine.

My friend Ben and I did parallel builds from plans not kit as you’re considering. It was well beyond my skill set and limited power tools’ capability. I’ll do a launch post with pictures and modifications.

You can find videos on YouTube for things not covered by OCH kit based videos for things like scarfing and lofting. I found using a flush trim bit on router helpful in making matching pieces. Jigsaw, plane and sand a plank or transom as it should be and then use it as a template with router and rough cut mirror part.

We had a hard time finding marine grade plywood in something other than okoume as a retired boat builder warned us off that but seems the issue was more the glue laminate. We got meranti ply, used meranti decking elsewhere except for the mast and spars. For those we epoxied spruce so grains would oppose and not warp. We wanted Douglas fir but didn’t find a lumber yard that carried it until later.

As to your question, it is reasonable to switch between sailing and motoring by just pulling the rudder up and off the pintles. Putting the rudder on after lifting the motor a bit more of a challenge because the rudder is buoyant and you’re bobbing around.

I made a kick up rudder last winter so I can leave it attached while motoring. The boat was already flipped so wasn’t able to prototype properly and based it off propeller scuff marks on the original rudder. I should have made the pivot point a bit higher. It stays out of the way unless I go into reverse and rudder gets pushed closer to the transom.

I need to figure out a better way to rig things so I can quickly get the boom, yard and sail out of the way to switch to rowing.

[Ted Guild]

Here are a few pictures of the kick up rudder.

 

[Ted Guild]

As you can see, it can stow in the stern compartment unlike the original rudder.

A few inches higher on the pivot point would have been better. As mentioned the boat was already flipped and covered so couldn’t really try a cardboard mockup with engine attached. I may make another this winter.

Screwing together mirror pieces like the cheeks on the rudder is a great aid in getting them the same on router.

[Ted Guild]

How I’ll probably rig getting the sail out of the way for rowing.

[Ted Guild]

Do note in the OCH videos that the stern transom was lowered some to be more suitable for a motor. I did the same.

[Author]

Posts