Topside Planks

[Bob Donaldson]

From my Blog: https://house-doc.net/Oonagh/?p=495

Now that the Dynel is on the bottom planks and chine planks, I can get started adding the topside planks. First I need to estimate where the bevel should be for the topside plank. To do that I made a gauge to mark where the bevel line should be on the chine plank.

Using this gauge I can mark where the bevel should be at each mold station.

Then bend a baton between the marks to draw a line where the bevel should be.

This results in an approximate line to follow for the bevel. You still need to check the bevel at each station because the angle changes from bow to stern.

Next I need to move the blocks I put on the mold for the chine planks so they are in the right place for the topside planks.

Next it’s time to start beveling the chine plank to fit the topside plank.

Then, test fitting the first Topside Plank.

3/8/21 – Beveled the other side of the boat, checked the fit and then added screws to anchor the bow and stern on each plank. Then the clamps can be removed. Looks more like a boat every day.

Tomorrow I will glue it up.

3/9/21 – Glued-up both topside planks. First applying unthickened epoxy to all surfaces and then applying thickened epoxy to the chine plank. Then, lining up the plank with the marks I made at station #6, I set the plank down on the mold and began with the stern screws and worked my way forward to the bow.

The hardest part is crawling under the boat to clean up the squeeze out on the inside.

I applied clamps at any station where the plank was not firmly against the mold.

Next, I need to get a new table saw to work on the Skeg and Gards.

4:00 pm – Back from a trip to Home Depot.

Up next, build a small table for the saw and begin to cut out the the gards and skeg.
Published March 7, 2

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