Preview: How to Build a Caledonia Yawl, Part 24 – Partners, Thwarts & Side Benches

8 Responses So Far to “How to Build a Caledonia Yawl, Part 24 – Partners, Thwarts & Side Benches”

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  edgar gatewood says:

  Really nice work, Geoff. I wonder if the stair treads used which are laminated into a single piece, and being for an interior application (I presueme) and the glue is likely not intended for exterior exposure, if these treads are a good choice. Also, why did you not angle the ends of the thwart at their ends as they abut the side of the boat? Thanks! Ned

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    Geoff Kerr says:

    Hi Ned, You are not the first to ponder these questions. The yellow pine stair treads we used were finger jointed glue-ups. That was an unfortunate, but it was what was was available, and given the timing of the filming project we decided to carry on. My local VT lumberyard has stocked solid, clear yellow pine stair tread for years, and that has been my default material. I’ve also used mahogany and Douglas fir on occasion. The glue up have held up structurally but not aesthetically, and I believe they have subsequently had a thin plywood surface veneer added to stabilize them.

    I didn’t and don’t angle the thwart and partner ends simply because there is no reason to do so. They don’t bear on the planking in any structural sense. They are fastened to the cleats or stringers to carry and spreads the loads. Holding them short as I do is simple, looks good with some artful shaping, and leaves ample clearance for drainage. The actual detailing is certainly a matter of builder’s choice , but bevelling and butting the ends would be a waste of time and patience and simply offer another spot for moisture, dirt and rot to live.

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  Joshua Parker says:

  I have seen some pictures of your more recent builds where the side benches are at the same height as the partners instead of being set below. Any insight on the best way to do that? I have conjectured to put another board under the partner to support the side bench ends, but figure there may be something I am not seeing in the pictures and thought I would ask. Thanks!

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    Geoff Kerr says:

    When clients ask for flush seating I have added ledgers to the underside of the thwarts to support the side benches. These are approx. 6″x 6″, tapered as needed to hide them, made from 1/2″ ply scraps. I glue them to the thwarts then fasten the benches in place with # 10 machine screws, with washers and nuts below. Flush seating is an aesthetic improvement, of no great importance functionally, and should be a $1000 add-on in terms of time and trouble.

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      Joshua Parker says:

      Thanks! You are right that it will be more headache and doesn’t make a hill of beans difference in the end all for looks.

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  Michael Owen says:

  I’m getting ready to flip the hull of my Whilly boat and have begun making patterns for the floor timbers. My question is about limber holes. I like the secure feeling of having the floors notch over the keelson, but I notice that some builders just leave those bits off, and get limber holes this way. Should I quit worrying and do it that way?

  Love the series!

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  Geoff Kerr says:

  Since there is no structural need for the thwarts to bear against the inside of the planks I choose to save myself the fiddling needed to tune that fit accurately. An undercut bevel would be basically invisible, and would just reduce the bearing surface of the thwart on the cleats. As always, a builder should feel free to amuse him or herself.

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  Paul Ludington says:

  I’m curious why you didn’t also bevel the ends of the thwarts to account for the outward flare of the hull?