Preview: How to Build a Caledonia Yawl, Part 26 – Some Odds & Ends

21 Responses So Far to “How to Build a Caledonia Yawl, Part 26 – Some Odds & Ends”

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  edgar gatewood says:

  Hell, Geoff. Thoroughly enjoying your building of the Caledonia Yawl. Do you know if Sutherland Tool is still in business and if so, where I might purchase a stainless steel rule as I see you using? I’ve run into a dead end in Google searches. Thank you very much. Ned.

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  Connor Wallace says:

  Hi Geoff-

  What method do you use to find the initial location and angle of the boomkin hole before drilling?

  Wonderful videos!

  • 

    Geoff Kerr says:

    The technical term for my technique is “stare at it for a while” ! There are a lot of variables involved. A look at the construction plan should give you an indication of the height of the hole relative to the rail. I use the top of the second plank on the inside as my index. I like to “rest” the spar on the double thick lap. Then think about where the inside end of the boomkin wants to land. I like to set it in a socket under the thwart to keep that seating space free. Take the boomkin if you have it made already, or a stick of the same length, lay it over the rail, hold it at the outer end, and play around ’til the end you are holding is on the centerline and the inboard end is hovering over( “shift your brain to “plan view”) the likely spot for the socket. It is clever to give yourself some clearance away from the hull planking, and to envision the rudder hard over. Once you have a vision of where the stick crosses the rail, drop a vertical down the inside of the sheer plank and you should have a spot to cut your hole. Once you have cut and faired said hole you’ll still have a little wiggle room for adjustment as you actually set your socket in place. As long as you end up with the outboard end somewhere near the centerline and thr ruuder free to turn you’ll be fine.

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      Geoff Kerr says:

      I believe ruuder is the Olde Dutch spelling…

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        Connor Wallace says:

        Ha! Thanks for the quick comment, your guidance is great!

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  Joshua Parker says:

  Geoff,
  What size hole saw do you use for that bumkin hole through the aft part of the boat?
  Thanks!

  • 

    Geoff Kerr says:

    I imagine it is a 2 1/2″… oversized to leave clearance for a leather wrap. That is a 2″ drum sander in the picture.

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  Genaro HERNANDEZ says:

  A recurring question: What kind of support do you use/create in order to maintain the hull in a perfectly LEVEL plane once it’s on the floor, so that the measurements (plumb, in this case) are accurate?
  Thank you for an excellent demonstration of boat building!

  • 

    Geoff Kerr says:

    What was done in the video build is pretty much what I do in my production shop. The waterline is marked and scribed using a laser level while the hull is on the molds. Once right side up and cradled/blocked I shim the supports as needed to level the boat fore and aft, measuring off the floor to the scribed WL at the bow and stern. I level athwartships with a 4 foot spirit level resting on a handy straight board to bridge the beam, and I generally check it in three places along the hull to make sure it is not twisted. Once you have figured out how you are going to support the boat the rest is easy and shouldn’t take very long. It is important to do it, and be diligent, but remember it is just a little sail boat. If it looks good it is probably close enoiugh.

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  Weaver Lilley says:

  I don’t think I could have built my Caledonia without this excellent series of films. Many thanks to Jeff and OCH.

  One observation about the through hull drainage plug: Since this is typically opened only at the end of a sailing season, it’s vulnerable to seizing up with oxide or marine matter. Last season I wrenched the entire fitting out of the hull in a failed effort to unscrew the plug. This season I’ve greased the plug’s threads hoping to avoid a repeat disaster.

  • 

    Geoff Kerr says:

    I guess I’ve been a lucky boy, perhaps because Ned Ludd is in and out of the water many times over the season. On the principle of “what could happen will” I’ve recently begun giving the plug a wrap of plumber’s Teflon thread tape. Thanks for the heads up.

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  Richard Schneider says:

  I have watched and enjoyed the series, from the beginning I have watched you use a wide metal ruler that seems to be priceless. Maybe I’ve been under my rock too long but I have never seen another and cannot find one. Any ideas? Thank you!

  • 

    Hank Kennedy says:

    Harbor freight $1.69

    • 

      Richard Schneider says:

      Not any longer

      • 

        Hank Kennedy says:

        Check this out. The inch markings are on the other side

        http://www.finewoodworking.com/tool-guide/product-finder/sutherland-tool-bevel-boss.aspx

        • 

          Hank Kennedy says:

          Richard,

          I finally got hold of Sutherland. They are no longer making/selling the Bevel Boss.

          Our best chance of getting our hands on one is a used tool sale/store.

          Hank

          • 

            Richard Schneider says:

            Thank you! I appreciate that and I will keep trying

            • 

              Hank Kennedy says:

              Richard,

              I found a similar rule at Rockler.

              http://www.rockler.com/igaging-12-center-rule-angle-gauge

              • 

                Eric Batts says:

                Garrett Wade also stocks the center rule/bevel finder: http://www.garrettwade.com/center-rule-bevel-setter-combo/p/96T01.09/

              • 

                Richard Schneider says:

                Hank
                Thank you, I also found one at Highland Woodworking. I appreciate the help , have great summer.

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  John Lewis says:

  Geoff,

  How important do you think that CB case forward brace is when righting the boat after capsize? I don’t have one on mine (the one you built in 2007 for Chris Drouin, ‘Jasmine’). I’m thinking about fabricating a removable one, but haven’t thought it out yet.

  I’ve really enjoyed this build series. I can’t thank you enough for your careful explanations and clear descriptions.

  Kelly Lewis
  Kerrville TX