Preview: How to Build a Caledonia Yawl, Part 38 – Installing the Rub Strips

7 Responses So Far to “How to Build a Caledonia Yawl, Part 38 – Installing the Rub Strips”

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  Stephen Guldin says:

  I love the combination of white / off-white colors. Can you publish what they are precisely?

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    Steve Stone says:

    Hi Stephen. Well, over the years we’ve meandered a bit and gotten very loose and casual. I can only give you a general rule because we don’t measure. And we’ve used boat paint and even high quality exterior house paint, but I’d reserve the house paint for the sheer. For the sheer, I go to the hardware store, find a color I like, and get them to make that up in a quart of high quality exterior house paint. Topsides and interior off whites are a blend of Interlux Premium Yacht Enamel and Interlux Brightside Grand Banks Beige mixed to the color I want. Seats, spars, and especially the bilge are the Interlux Brightside Grand Banks Beige. Bottom paint is water-based black.

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  David Wilpula says:

  I know this episode was on the rub strips, but I’m curious to know if you glassed the hull before painting? If I remember correctly the planks are okoume ply, which some folks feel strongly about glassing any exposed ends/edges Others (Iain included) I’ve heard say to buy the best planking stock you can find and seal it with a good primer. I just set up a jig for my first build (Humble Bee), and would appreciate any thoughts on sealing the edges of the laps.

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    Geoff Kerr says:

    There is no glass on this boat. I think what you have read is that all exposed edges need to be epoxy sealed. It is next to impossible to glass the outside of a lapstrake hull. By the time you round over the laps to allow glass to conform you lose the crisp edge that lends lapstrake planking it visual appeal. In the Caledonia the light weight hull and the prominent outer stems and keel combine to protect the hull from much wear.

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  Stewart Lee says:

  I’ve worked with metal for many years, and I tend to take a simpler path. I measure where the hole needs to be, and with a narrow square file (smaller than the screw head) I make two or three strokes to create a small flat space on the top of the curve. Then I measure again to find the exact spot (including the width), and with a very fine pointed Sharpie I make a dot.

  Using a small pointed punch, I tap it to make sure the point is where it needs to be, then strike once very firmly to make a nice dimple. Do this on the ‘anvil’ on the back of a vise, or on any other heavy chunk of metal that you have laying around,
  From there it’s just a case of using the drill press (with a scrap of plywood on the deck) and drilling a hole large enough for the shank. Then countersink. A few quick strokes with a piece of fine sandpaper will remove any burrs, and you’re done.

  This may seem haphazard or sloppy to some people, but I’ve never misdrilled (that I’ll admit to) or had any problems. It’s quick and efficient. I’d recommend trying it several times before you decide to use this method, of course. (If you’re shaking your head and muttering, “This guy’s crazy,” my girlfriend agrees with you completely.)

  For something long like this, I’ve always held the metal with my hands, and never used any sort of jig or clamp. If the piece is unwieldy, I brace it up to the level of the deck with whatever’s handy.
  (Please note- If you’re working with something small that might catch and spin, use clamps or a vise!)

  There are only a few things I’d like to add.
  First, make sure that you’re using bits for steel, typically a ‘handyman’s’ set marked “high speed steel/ wood”. Get them from your local hardware store, and don’t spend much on them if you’re not going to use them very often.
  Second, drill in firm, short little plunges, no more than three or four seconds at a time, followed by two or three seconds of cooling time. This will keep your bit from overheating and losing its temper.
  I have a small note taped to my drill press that reads, “It doesn’t have to be glowing red to be hot enough to burn you.” Brass is pretty soft, but it is very dense and will build up a lot of heat. I don’t hesitate to cool it down with a wet towel.
  Make sure to wear gloves!

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    Jaren Peterson says:

    Thanks describing this method. It worked great for me!

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  Ron Fortucci says:

  Hi, I have been watching each thrilling episode of how to build a Caledonia yawl with fearless boat builder Geoff , and I would like to put in my two cents, in hopes that it helps others. About twenty years ago I built a Catspaw dingy which had brass rub strips on the keel and the rub rails. A lot of screw holes had to be drilled. I made up a simple jig out of 3/4″ plywood . First run the plywood ( rectangle large enough to clamp to drill press table) through your table saw with the blade up far enough to cut a grove a bit deeper than the thickness of your brass strip and the same width as your drill bit. Drill hole in groove to center jig on drill press. Cut 2 steps, one on each side of groove to cradle the curved center of the brass strip laid face down. Mount 4 round head screws, 2 on each side of brass strip, to hold the brass strip face side down on jig but loose enough for brass strip to slide easily. Center jig on drill press table, clamp in place. Mark jig or brass strip for spacing,and drill holes.