Preview: How to Build a Caledonia Yawl, Part 41 – Rigging

47 Responses So Far to “How to Build a Caledonia Yawl, Part 41 – Rigging”

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  Robie Gardner says:

  I am in my second season of sailing my CY and I have at times struggled to reef while underway. I tend to reef now before I leave the dock. Referring back to the plans, Ian suggests small blocks on both ends of the boom and cleats midships of the boom. Has anyone installed the hardware as the plans suggest? It looks like he has blocks hanging from the reef points on the leach of the sail. Goeff never mentions reefing or what he does on the Ned Ludd. I would love to hear what others do in regards to reefing on a lug rig.

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    Matt Clouse says:

    I start by sheeting in the mizzen and rounding up into the wind. Once things calm down, I release the downhaul and lower the halyard partially—enough to tuck in a reef or two as necessary. I focused on cleating off the reef at the tack and then the clew. Make sure you don’t tie off the reef points under the boom that are in the middle of the sail (done that!). That won’t be a good sail shape. The mainsail is loose footed normally and should be loose footed with reefs. For the clew and tack, I don’t use blocks. I use round rigging thimbles with grommets instead – I like them because they are lightweight and simple. The reefed clew (aft end of main sail) shifts forward with each reef to keep the clew close to the boom. Once the reef is in, I raise the sail, tighten the downhaul, loosen the mizzen sheet, and fall off. Hope that helps.

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      Matt Clouse says:

      And I should have added that my boom has the hardware the plans suggest — thanks to Geoff Kerr who built her in ‘04.

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  Daniel Simonds says:

  I am in the finishing stages of my CY and will begin making spars soon. With diligence and a bit of luck I’ll be rigging sometime this summer. With that in mind, I am in need of a sail maker. Can anyone share recommendations, experiences, advice, or suggestions? I’m building the lug-yawl rig and live in western Maine.

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    Steve Stone says:

    Congrats Daniel. Douglas Folwer is the guy for sails for the Caledonia Yawl. He is who Geoff Kerr uses and they have it down to a fine art over 25 years of fine tuning. He might have made 40 sets for CY’s. Price is fair as well. He’s nearing retirement, so if he can’t make them try Nat Wilson or Grant Gambell at Gambell & Hunter. https://www.gambellandhunter.net/
    Nat is near retirement too, and it’s a relatively small fussy job, and best I can tell this is right in the sweet spot of Gambell.
    And btw, consider carbon fiber for the main mast. Tony DeLima at fortecarbon.com. I would not sail the open waters of the Maine coast like I do with a wood main mast. Depends upon how/where you’re going to sail and in what conditions, but that’s my 2 cents.

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    Richard Holcombe says:

    Last spring I was thinking of rushing to finish my CY build and unable to find a Sailmaker lead time or price that made sense. Then Thurston came through and I intend to be happy with what I got.
    I’ll be sailing this summer here on the Oregon Coast, and hopefully a jaunt up I-5 to the Port Townsend area.

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  DEAN KEDDY-HECTOR says:

  What a wonderful series of videos! I’ve watched many of them over and over again to help with construction of a Tirrik that is finally nearing completion.
  The numerous rigging options are driving me a tad crazy, so I again consulted your videos and was fascinated by (and curious about) the simplicity of the mainsheet system on your CY. It looks like a single block on the boom anchored to a cleat or pad eye on the centerboard case with the running end passing through a second cleat also on the centerboard case. I assume this is more than adequate or you wouldn’t be using it, but how does it compare with standard (and expensive) “modern” mainsheets that depend on 2 or 3 three blocks? I have the same sort of question about your blockless downhaul system.

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    Geoff Kerr says:

    My rigging philosophy is simpler and cheaper as long as it works. Adding multipart mechanical advantage to the running rigging can will reduce the working load on the skipper but add parts and dollars and the length of line that must be managed. The main sheet on a lug rigged Caledonia is just about the upper limit for a single block set-up, and working with a simple horn cleat is an acquired (though very cool) skill. I currently offer the option and routinely rig that with a swivel block cam cleat on the cb trunk. Most folks find it more familiar and easier to manage.
    I don’t usually adjust the downhaul while underway. Yes, I know the theories, and can twiddle and tweak with the best of them…but we’re not racing and seldom chasing tenths of knots. Adding a multipart downhaul seems kind of silly, and there is precious little room between the boom and the mast partner anyway. To do it justice I think one would have to rig it through the partner and lead it aft to the skipper, and that will quickly become a circus. I know how, and have done it on other designers boats when specified, but have never even considered it in 25 years of sailing my boat.
    Given the relative size of the Tirrik I would not worry about simple choices limiting you…you can always add features and systems after the fact.

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      DEAN KEDDY-HECTOR says:

      Geoff — Thanks for the extended response. It gives me confidence about keeping things simple. This Tirrik project, for a non-sailor, has been pretty challenging, but I fell in love with double-enders when I got to inspect some traditional faerigs in Bodo, Norway a few years ago, and then my wife asked me to build her a sailboat.

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  Scott Petit says:

  Do you know of any resources available for info about rigger the gunter/peaked gaff rig version? I’m almost to the rigging phase now.

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    Donald Sullivan says:

    Scott, I originally built my Calidonia Yawl with the balanced lug rig, but recently converted her to a Gunter Yawl rig for various reasons. The plans include details for both rigs, but I am happy to share my experiences with you if you’d like.

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      Scott Petit says:

      Don, didn’t see you reply until just now. Thanks for the offer, and thanks again also to Geoff. And you are absolutely right Geoff, just about done rigging, after the usual pre-project perseveration anxiety, I’m having a ball just doing it and figuring it out as I go.

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    Geoff Kerr says:

    I’ve replied to Scott directly, but after some thought decided the rest of the readers might like to know what I know… I’ve built the jib-headed, gaff-yawl version once, and was able to sail that boat several times. It is a much more complex rigging project, but I found the plans were adequate. There are lots of individual choices to be made regarding hardware and fastenings, but that is part of the charm. I really like the rig, and especially what it does to the interior of the boat. The bow becomes much more accessible with the main partner lower and further aft. The rig itself is lovely to look at and sails much closer to the wind than the lug version, tho’ no faster, and it is actually slower off the wind. The main drawback is more busy work when launching and recovering. I’d say it adds about 6% in time and materials to the overall project.

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  Joshua Parker says:

  Is the main sail rigged on the port or starboard side of the main mast? From the videos of Ned Ludd it looks like starboard, but the videos of Howdy look to put it on the port side. Is one preferred over the other, or is it a lefty/righty thing?

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    Geoff Kerr says:

    I always rig the main to stb of the mast. I can’t imagine that it matters, as long as you mount the associated bits like the downhaul eyebolt and the halyard belaying pin appropriately.

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  Eric Child says:

  Sir
  How is the location of the strop determined…?

  Thank you

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    Geoff Kerr says:

    Right off the sail plan. That location is key to getting the center of effort right. Iain notes a specific measurement on the drawing.

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  Eric Child says:

  This has been an incredible series to follow, thanks so much for sharing your knowledge… I am very inspired to build a little wooden boat. My experience is only of building a couple stitch and glue kayaks. I’d love to take it to the next level… Could you possibly recommend a couple options that aren’t as involved as this little gem from Ian…?

  Thank you

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    Geoff Kerr says:

    Glad you have enjoyed the series Eric. There are so many wonderful small boat designs that I struggle to come up with an obvious recommendation. Iain Oughtred alone has a dozen or so simpler small boats, so a wander through his catalogue might prompt you. If you have built stitch and glue kayaks perhaps a noodle through the Chesapeake Light Craft catalogue would prove inspirational. They have many great small boats as well, with impeccable kit quality and instructions.

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      Martin (Marty) Casey says:

      Geoff
      I feel this is a fitting time to thank you for your inspiration and guidance in the CY build videos. I have just completed my yawl today…and I mean today..complete, nothing to do now. Launch is Sunday morning in Newport (RI) Harbor. It took a little more than a year in an open driveway build, was a lot of fun, a good challenge. Looking forward to sailing.
      Thanks to you and the crew.
      Marty Casey

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        Steve Stone says:

        Awesome Marty. Congratulations.
        Email us a couple photos if you have good ones.

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  Thomas Fulton says:

  Would it be possible to proved the name of the sail maker that Geoff Kerr uses for the boats he builds? Thanks- Tom

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    Geoff Kerr says:

    Nat Wilson and his crew in East Boothbay built the sails for the boat featured in this series. Indeed there is an independent 4 part series dedicated to that very project. I’ve been involved in several builds that included Nat’s exquisite sails, and happily order from there when a client requests them.

    My go-to sailmaker is Douglas Fowler in Ithaca New York (607 277 0041). I’ve been ordering sails from Douglas for 25 years, and can only imagine that he has built more suits of Iain Oughtred sails than any other loft. By my own whim Ned Ludd is on his third set of sails, and the evolution and durability of Douglas’ work over the years has been superb.

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      Thomas Fulton says:

      Thank you for the information. I will contact Doug Fowler. Also, your videos were very helpful guidance in building my CY.. Sometimes it was just a confirmation of my planned path forward, which is useful, and sometimes it was a clear, “I didn’t think of or realize that!” Which made my life easier.

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        Scott Petit says:

        Just as another option and an unsolicited plug for some really nice folks, I called Nat Wilson who made a sprit sail for me a decade or so ago that is a piece of art. He was covered in work and suggestedTom and Dayle Ward at Traditional Rigging Co. in Appleton Maine. Dayle does the sail making. She couldn’t have been more pleasant to work with and the sails are once again pieces of art that make it look like I did my work with an ax and duct tape.

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  Martin (Marty) Casey says:

  I’m at planning stage of Caledonia yawl build. Will be approaching this a little backward from a more common process . I’m going to fabricate many components first…spars, c board, rudder, thwarts, floors etc. Then do the build in backyard. Will probably get cnc molds and planking from Hawes.
  My question to anyone… I have a pretty good supply of paulownia. Looking for opinions on suitability for using this for spars. Thinking maybe a little larger diameter than plans call for.
  Thank you…Marty Casey.

  • 

    Geoff Kerr says:

    I have no experience with paulownia, but a quick glance at the interwebs certainly makes it seem tempting with respect to strength/weight ratio and durability. I imagine an online outing to the WoodenBoat forum will produce many and varied opinions. I also suggest you check the WoodenBoat online index and see if it has appeared in their Wood Technology series.

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      Martin (Marty) Casey says:

      Thank you for quick reply. I have made about 9 hollow surfboards over the past 10 years with paulownia and it’s been a dream to work with. Absolutely no failures. Surfed the boards pretty hard but they do have 4oz. Glass and epoxy.
      It’s very light and am thinking about difficulty stepping a spruce mast alone. Plus the saved expense .
      I’ve watched your videos over and over studying them closely. I owe you and don’t even know you! But I feel I do. I’ll put a blurb out on the WB forum.
      Thank you again…Marty

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  Jim Kramer says:

  I just read the WB forum regarding oiled wood. Le Tonkinois sounds good for spars on the Caledonia. Should I go with this or is there something better?

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    Geoff Kerr says:

    I’ve no experience with that product. I generally paint or varnish spars according the the clients wishes, and use a coat of epoxy as a sealer. I do use WATCO Teak Oil quite often ,usually on floorboards or seats which are natural lumber with no epoxied joints. The spars on the OCH boat were oiled,with Watco Teak oil, and it seems to be holding up well. The caveat on oil finishes has traditionally been that they remain sticky, which holds every dirt particle within a half mile, so let me suggest a trial piece with any unfamiliar product.

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      Jim Kramer says:

      Geoff,
      Thanks for that insight. Looks like it’s back to the clear coat and varnish.
      Jim

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        Steve Stone says:

        The Watco oil works great and as long as you follow directions and wipe the excess off. If you do so, and let them dry properly, the spars don’t collect dirt. Be sure to get Watco’s “exterior” oil, which may be the “teak” oil or some other version, I can’t recall. I do recall the first one I grabbed being the “interior” version. Anything oiled does fade in the sun over time though to dark gray. Hasn’t yet in 3 seasons but will. I notice the horizontal surface of the boomkin fading some. That feeling of wood texture rather than slick paint or varnish is worth it to me. Easy light sand and re-oil every couple years for maintenance.

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  Reagan Tucker says:

  Great series, very educational. Outstanding camera work. Unless i missed it could you comment on the excellent painting details? brand of primer & paint used, color selections, # coats, semi gloss? Thank you for putting this together start to finish. Reagan

  • 

    Steve Stone says:

    Reagan. Here’s a super short answer to a very deep question that inspired the most impassioned conversations of all re: the Caledonia. We had a mind to experiment with the paint on the CY, because each person on our crew had very strong opinions that were at the opposite ends of the spectrum.

    Some of our group kinda hate the glossy look and feel of the new-fangled-poly-wt? paints — “might as well be plastic” I think I heard one of those in the touchy-feely camp say. It’s all about aesthetics for the purists in that camp, and since they’re retired, have all the time in the world, and might love sanding and painting more than sex, they go with old fashioned Kirby-type paints with flat-ish finishes (especially since Kirby has such awesome colors). The finish is more workboat-like, and takes these purists back to the day. And if I could add an editorial note to these facts, it’d be that the finish not only looks workboat like, but when you run your hand along this type paint it’s a much more authentic feeling, and less like the plastic feel of the newfangled glossy-poly-wt? paints.

    Those in the more practical “I’d rather be hanging out with my kids or drinking a beer with my friends than sanding and painting” camp go for the new-fangled-poly-wt?-paints. Geoff Kerr sat in this camp for the first 17 years after painting Ned Ludd, happily taking his kids and their friends sailing with decade-old paint that still looked pretty good and still covered all the wood (partly because he put down two coats of non-thickened epoxy before the paint), and he kept right on sitting in that camp for the next seven years, drinking a cold beer with his friends… while the purists were out sanding and painting their boat every year (Geoff’s Interlux Brightside paint lasted 17 years before repainting). Those in this camp would say that after three seasons the gloss wears off newfangled paints and they have a flatter finish that would please the purists.

    As you can see, this debate is a never-ending spiral that puts close friends on opposite ends of a spectrum, and pits those of us who all belong to the very same small tribe against one another.

    As the less-experienced and more objective one in the group regarding boat paint, after hearing all the arguments, and using virtually every type of paint in the spectrum on our Caledonia Yawl, including Sherwin Williams house paint on the red sheer strake, I can tell you with some degree of certainty, that my friends in both camps have it absolutely right. I like the look and feel of the flattish old fashioned paints, and I like the minimal maintenance of the poly-wt? paints, and I can argue either one on any given day.

    The epoxy-plywood nature of the CY enables the chance to give it two coats of unthickened epoxy before the initial painting (see Geoff’s brilliant video on this technique), and doing this makes the even old fashioned paints last longer between repainting than a traditionally planked boat.

    All that said, if I were personally painting our CY for the first time now, with the experience we’ve had over the first few years, and knowing about all those laps up and down the inside and outside of a 7-plank CY, I’d pick the Interlux Brightside and be glad that I’m sailing the boat and not repainting it very often.

    In the end, it’s just paint, and paint is for covering a surface so it doesn’t deteriorate. I don’t ever think about it except when I’m cleaning the bilge and it wipes right out because for the bilge we used the poly-wt? paint.

    Here’s Geoff’s painting technique:
    https://www.offcenterharbor.com/videos/painting-a-wooden-boat-simple-techniques-professional-finish/

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  Jim Kramer says:

  What kind of line was used for the main halyard?

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    Geoff Kerr says:

    I rigged this boat with New England Rope’s ‘Classic Spun 3 Strand Dacron.’ It is reasonably low stretch, east to handle, knot and splice, looks appropriate on a ‘traditional’ boat. Available from Hamilton Marine in an array of sizes. I believe the plans call for 3’8″ for the main halyard.

    • 

      Jim Kramer says:

      Yup….it does look good on the Cal.
      Thanks

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  Michael Owen says:

  Hi there. Thanks so much for this series! It’s been very helpful.
  I’m making the spars for my 14 foot Whilly Boat now.
  Do you all think it’s a good idea to wait until I have the sail in hand before drilling bee holes?

  Mike

  • 

    Geoff Kerr says:

    While patience is a critical virtue in a project, I’m usually ahead of the sailmaker at this point and carry on. I suggest going ahead, especially since you want to drill before painting. Double check your lengths for your peace of mind, and locate the holes at the ends of the spars. A little long is great…it gives you lots of outhaul leverage. A little short is sad. This is just one more leap of faith!

    • 

      Michael Owen says:

      Thanks!!!

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  David Jeffery says:

  I hope we’ll see the launching in Part 43. This has been a wonderful series for all the details that can be learned–material, tools, techniques, careful planning, patience–and applied to whatever you may be constructing, boat or other items. Many thanks from a wood butcher looking to improve.

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  Mark Morgen says:

  Can you make the entire series of videos available as a dvd. I am going to build this boat, but have a couple canoes to build and restore. I want to have this as a reference guide

  • 

    Steve Stone says:

    Hi Mark. Glad you’re going to build a Caledonia. We don’t offer the videos on DVD, but as long as you’re an Off Center member, they’ll be here.

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  Paul Gill says:

  Geoff:

  It looks as though you oiled the spars. If so, what did you use?

  Paul

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    Steve Stone says:

    I’ve got that in the shop Paul. Stand by and I’ll list it here. It’s one of the Watco products for outdoor use. Worked great.

    • 

      Paul Gill says:

      Varnish looks great, but I sold my beloved NORTHERN LIGHT (Walsted-built sloop) because I couldn’t keep up with the brightwork! Oil sounds like a good alternative.

      • 

        Hank Kennedy says:

        What a great series this has been. I anxiously awaited each new video. I had the pleasure of seeing the finished product at the boat show at Mystic. The boat is every bit as beautiful in real life as in the videos. Geoff has done a superb job, (not his first and I truly hope not his last.

        Thanks to all who had a part in this wonderful adventure.

        Hank