Preview: Building the Oonagh Rowing/Sailing Dinghy, Part 15 – The Daggerboard Trunk

20 Responses So Far to “Building the Oonagh Rowing/Sailing Dinghy, Part 15 – The Daggerboard Trunk”

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  Graeme Harrison says:

  Hi Kit, just a quick question, I’m at the stage of gluing the boards together for the bottom,chine and above the chines and I need to know what is the extra stuff you use to strengthen up the joint. Is it the same as the part B or the hardener, that I mix in with part A ,and I use a brush and paint it over the mixed glue that I have already applied? I hope you can understand my question. Basically its the additive that you use to strengthen the glue. I’v had my plans for about a year now and I have been doing a few other jobs for some friends so its put me behind a bit. I am really enjoying the video’s and the precise way you Build and explain Everything so great. I am building the Oonagh with the sails too. We have a nice big dam close by and looking forward to a lot of fun with the Oonagh . Thank You KIT, for your help and I hope you can understand my Question. from Graeme Harrison from ESK Queensland AUSTRALIA..

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    Kit Macchi says:

    Hello Graeme! I used a mix of colloidal silica and wood fibers (roughly 60/40) and those are both additive powders mixed directly into the epoxy. Whichever brand you’ve decided to use should make these additives & will have charts for what they’re used for. The silica thickens the epoxy and strengthens joints (though adding too much can prevent that benefit!) and there are others that are used to thicken the epoxy to fill screw holes and fair out dings and bumps (these are used later to fill in the weave of the dynel that is used on the bottom planking). Hope this helps!

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  Maura Mulcahy says:

  Any ETA on #16? Maybe it’s up and I’m missing it?

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    Maura Mulcahy says:

    NM – it was alluding me. I did have a question with regard to whether I should epoxy with West – the floor of the boat – before priming or is that overkill and perhaps I should not?

    Plugging along…

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      Steve Stone says:

      Hi Maura. Yes, here’s the process we recommend:
      https://www.offcenterharbor.com/videos/painting-a-wooden-boat-simple-techniques-professional-finish/

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  David Tew says:

  An old interview with Kit Macchi about her intro to boatbuilding: https://www.apprenticeshop.org/latest-news/2018/3/30/womens-history-month-interview

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  Maura Mulcahy says:

  Has anyone put the cloth/fabric in the centerboard trunk and or the centerboard itself for added strength?
  Thanks! Getting closer every week.

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  John Keck says:

  Where’s Episode 16?? LOL, I’m jonesing for more Oonagh!

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  jeffrey chabot says:

  Can anyone tell me where to get the paint called out for oonagh especially the tender interior cream, and also I just cut the centerboard slot with a plunge router and it worked great just like kit showed, just go slow, I used a 1/4″ piece of plywood and cut a square that was the same width as my base plate, measured the off set front and rear to achive the right lenght slot, held it down with two sheetrock screws front and rear and went 1/4′ down each pass until I was thru the keel and I used a 1/2″ dia by 2″ long bit that I got at HomeDepot, thanks, Jeff

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    Steve Stone says:

    Hey Jeff. There’s a section on paint selection in the forum including a very useful little rave by Doug Hylan. FYI I’m just finally repainting the interior of HOWDY after 7 years and continue to love using the Interlux Flat White mixed with however much Interlux Brightside “Grand Banks Beige” I’d like for warming/darkening the white into something more pleasing to the eyes (both in color tone and in knocking down the bright reflection of the sun). Doug is one of the geniuses at blending colors to get creamy off whites, but you’ll see in his writing in the forum that it is a challenging science experiment, and my Interlux combo is the closest/easiest combo that I’ve found that gets good/quality/durable paint on the surface in a beautiful warm tone that isn’t pee yellowish or cool (blue) gray (too color tones that are like fingernails on a chalkboard to me). Another good option is picking any color you want in a swatch at the paint store and send it to Kirby to match.

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  William Stanard says:

  Kit,
  Can you share why you use slotted screws rather than Philips head ones?
  Very smooth and clear lessons!
  Bill

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    Sean Scully says:

    I was wondering the same thing about the slotted screws. Seams to me square head or tourq might even be better than phillips. Do know flat head screws are easier to clean and chisel out, but is a glued glass boat and nothing comes apart easy. Kind regards, and fair winds. Thank you for being so fussy.

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    Steve Stone says:

    Hey Bill and Sean. We may have answered this in another video, but you’re right. Square drives might be preferable for the reasons you mention. Traditional boatbuilders love slotted screws and have them in all needed sizes and lengths so that’s what they use rather than having to purchase a bunch of extra for a plywood boat project.

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  Chris Jeffries says:

  Why do you not screw the daggerboard casing fore and aft ?

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  Rich Dodson says:

  Kit, I really appreciate your teaching style. I will try to remember to use the word “fussy” instead of many other words I commonly use in my workshop. :-) And I love your “calendar girl” boat for May too. Best wishes for continued health and happiness!

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  Jeffrey Beatty says:

  It seems you skipped over the process to cut the daggerboard slot through the hull. That would be nice to see, for those of us nervous about cutting a big hole in the boat!

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    Rich Dodson says:

    Jeffrey, I have done that once. It was a “measure three times, have someone else measure three times, pause for an incantation, and use a small drill bit” moment! Best wishes!

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    David Ryan says:

    See video 13 for cutting the daggerboard slot

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      Jeffrey Beatty says:

      Thanks – don’t know how I missed that…

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  Michael Vaughan says:

  Great work Kit.
  Wonderful teaching.
  Terrific tempo.
  Keep ’em coming.
  Your fans are standing by for each installment.