Preview: Building a Stitch and Glue Boat, Part 4 – The Bottom & Sheer Clamps
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January 28, 2012
Email this Video to a FriendBill’s gluing-up bottom panels and gluing sheer clamps. In this stitch and glue boat building video, we cover: Using “pinch” clamps; The theory behind using slow curing epoxy; A ¼” measuring stick; Thoughts on pacing a job; Cutting a compound bevel.
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8 Responses So Far to “Building a Stitch and Glue Boat, Part 4 – The Bottom & Sheer Clamps”
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Roger Williams says:
Is there a fourth video? I would like to have seen the finished product
Steve Stone says:
Hey Roger. This is the 4th video, and you’ll find the 5th video in the “related videos” slider above and too the right. There are 26 videos in this series, so hold on!
Grant E. Nelson says:
When using the stick with the 1/4 inch mark to offset the sheer clamps it looks like Bill is only doing this for the Sheer Clamp on one side… it he still off setting the other side, maybe by feel?
Jeff Trapp says:
You are making them very close to just looking down and making them the same or parallel..
Thomas Dalzell says:
If you don’t have four equal height horses, or don’t want to put epoxy on upside down, one thing you can do is clamp the pieces to the sides of a horse. I have two Krenov horses, that are very useful for boat building. I clamp the side vertically, and they are stiffer that way as was pointed out, and they allow you to put epoxy on both sides vertically, or you can slap the glue on flat, them pair them up vertically.. You can get any curve on two vertical horses, no need to adjust them to the edge curve. You will have to manage the runs, but that is not generally a problem. I have done sides up to 20 feet this way, and could do longer, just don’t regularly build longer. I have also glued the scarphs on the panels at that point, and even laminated them on boats where there were several layers of material to be plied. Depends on your tools and space.
EJ DESLAURIERS says:
I noticed at 12min 57 sec you pumped from the pump at the far left instead of the center pump what was in that pump?
Thomas Dalzell says:
There are normally three choices. 1) a new bottle of the same stuff, if one of the bottles is starting to spit. You will use twice the resin bottles to the hardener bottles. I couldn’t tell but the pump looked taller, which would make it resin; 2) A different bottle of hardener to accelerate or retard the mix. You can mix hardener speeds, and normally pros will use pretty fast stuff, particularly in a shop that looks pretty temperature comfortable; 3) a different resin, these sometimes can be mixed, some brands have resins that do different things like better UV or clarity, none of which would mater with gluing these parts, so I don’t think that plays here.
Grant E. Nelson says:
Zooming in on that section, I see the word ‘Fast’ on the right most container, so I assume its a accelerated hardener. This would also mean that twice as much accelerated hardener is used when used… is this correct?