Preview: Marine Diesel Engines, Part 9 – Belt & Electrical System

24 Responses So Far to “Marine Diesel Engines, Part 9 – Belt & Electrical System”

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  Robert Coolican says:

  Jon… Great job on the engine presentations! I had a basic understanding beforehand but you provided that “extra touch” in explaining the diesel components… Thank You

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  Saar Harel says:

  Excellent presentation. I actually feel confident enough to a have a look at my old Md2B.

  Thank you

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  Malcolm Mac Eachern says:

  enjoyed and took notes form the nine videos well done would like to see one more video focusing on glow plugs testing and replacement procedure.

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  norman poulin says:

  great video gives a good understanding of the yanmar

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  Ian Latham says:

  Outstanding presentation throughout and great learning. Thank you, Jon!

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  Eric J Nelson says:

  So I just inherited the maintenence and use of a old Beta inboard Diesel. I have never managed any marine diesels, this series is my new best friend~~
  Plus I now know to replace old parts that are likely way in need of replacement. Thanks, Eric

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  olivier rossignol says:

  really good video, i enjoyed it a lot. thanks for the knowledge

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  Jeff Powell says:

  Excellent series. Good refresher after taking prior course at Brewer’s South Freeport, ME

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  Antonio (Tony) Osse says:

  Please tell us that the next 9 chapters are almost finished…..

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  Tim Lamarre says:

  Hi Jon,

  Ok, prior to the videos, I knew nothing and, in fact, I have to know this stuff, esp. trouble shooting.I learned quite a bit from your videos and found the pace reasonable and engaging, i.e. I wasn’t bored stiff. Thanks for sharing. I would like to see more videos from you.I have a 1990 Yanmar 3HM35F with about 3600 hours on it and hope to cruise without having to repower.

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  Matt Wilkins says:

  Jon, you’ve illuminated this whole aspect of boat ownership for me.

  This series of diesel videos has been invaluable. First boat and a project boat at that. Armed with this new knowledge I’ll be getting to grips with the engine at the weekend.

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  William Elliott says:

  Great series. As a relative novice when it comes to auxiliaries, this has been EXTREMELY helpful. Everything is clear and concise, and the rationale is described as well. I now feel confident that I will be able to do most/all of my own basic maintenance (which is what every sailor should be able to do). THANKS!!

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  Andrew Ballantine says:

  Hi,
  Very useful and clearly explained series.
  Although you tensioned the belt correctly, it would have been beneficial to point out that the commonest cause of water pump failure is due to over tightening the belt. The water pump can fail within a few hours when the belt is over tightened. We used to see lots of water pump failures after the enthusiastic owners had adjusted the belt “nice and tight”.

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  Thomas Wentzien says:

  Very nice series. Was a 10th video deemed not necessary? There was a teaser at the end for a part 10 but I don’t see it on the site.

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  Jim Myers says:

  Excellent, as usual

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  Kenelm Russell says:

  I have devised a neat way to start our Perkins 4-108 in cold weather. The engine has no glow plugs. Its compression is not as high as when new. The hour meter reads more than 8000 hours. When ambient engine room temperature is below about 50-55 degrees the engine starts only after excessively long cranking. There is high potential for ruining the starter. In colder winter weather I insert my low wattage heat gun in a 1/1/4 inch 1/8 bend pipe elbow I screwed in to the threaded opening just below the air intake to the manifold. This threaded hole is for a rather complicated preheater. I turn on the heat gun and go topsides to push the starter. The engine starts so fast I can barely hear the starter run. I don’t even have to touch the throttle. I dash down the companionway ladder, remove the heat gun, and screw a cap into the open elbow to keep 100% of the air coming through the intake filter. I must use extreme care when reaching into the engine compartment so fingers don;t get into the belt. I realize that an engine overhaul would help the engine start better when it is cold. The 35 year old engine still runs so well there is little need. My heat gun wattage is low enough that our inverter will handle it if I am away from shore power.

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  David Tew says:

  Our glowplugs are activated by turning the ignition key to an intermediate detent. The manual tells us to activate the glowplugs for seven to ten seconds before attempting to turn the engine over. There’s a rapid clicking sound during those seven to ten seconds which I wonder about. Could our relay be ‘sticking’ or ‘cycling’? The engine is a Sole 33hp three cylinder diesel. Thx.

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    Jon Bardo says:

    David, I suspect that the rapid clicking sound that you hear may very well be the electric fuel lift pump that is being energized at the same time as the glow plugs. Some engines are wirered this way to help purge air that may be in the fuel lines which will enhance a quick and efficient start. Now you have just learned a trouble-shooting tip. If the engine fails to start and the clicking sound is not apparent, you may have discovered the failed part. Next you would have to determine if the pump is bad or the flow of electrons(electricity, 12 volts) is not getting to the pump!! Good job, keep on seeing, listening, and questioning. JCB

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      Jon Bardo says:

      Oops, forgot to mention about checking the wire to the relay and the connections there abouts.If the relay is cycling check the voltage to and out of the relay itself. If the voltage is not holding around 12-volts or is jumping (cycling) investigate further. JCB

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        David Tew says:

        Thanks! Will do.

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        David Fawcett says:

        Hi Jon,

        On the Yanmar 3YM30 shown in the video there is a starter relay at the top rear of the engine. If I wished to attached a temporary starter circuit (using a momentary switch) to overcome a cockpit panel problem, do you have a diagram showing the connections that would be required for this relay?

        Thanks

        David

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      David Tew says:

      So if I understand correctly, the electric fuel pump would remain activated (‘clicking’) after the engine is running also, but I would have to listen closely to identify it alongside the normal engine noise?

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        Jon Bardo says:

        David, The elec. fuel pump is pressure regulated and will operate when the fuel pressure drops below a given amount. One method used to see if the pump is pumping, hold your thumb on the pump to feel the pulses or use a volt meter on the output terminal of the pump to ground. JCB

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          David Tew says:

          Makes sense. Thanks!