Preview: Mastering Epoxy with Russell Brown, Part 10 – Rolling & Tipping an Exterior Gloss Coat

11 Responses So Far to “Mastering Epoxy with Russell Brown, Part 10 – Rolling & Tipping an Exterior Gloss Coat”

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  Steve Hibbard says:

  Suggestion for another Video: “Recovery tips and techniques.”
  I need to apply a gloss epoxy coat to a wherry assembled in one week at WBS. The instructor was amazing but still the prior steps were done by an amateur supervised by an over stretched teacher. In your videos, each prior step was done by a professional, I am trying to finish a boat that has bubbles and wrinkles in the fibre glass, fish eyes and drips in the fill coat, places where the glass has been sanded, etc. It would be great to have a video that shows how to make the best of a prior mistake, how to recover as much as possible when encountering problem areas. I’m sure you could quickly come up with a list of the 10 most common problems. I’ve accepted that this is a practice boat and I don’t expect perfection. Starting again is not an option. I just want to finish it as professionally as possible given the amateur work that has already been done.

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  Luke Fisken says:

  Hi. Quick question. When I’m laying cloth on repairs to my boat and peel ply over the top in end up with lots of pin holes. I have been rolling resin over the top and tipping and sanding to get rid of it but it takes another couple of coats. Am I doing something wrong that’s causing the pinholes?
  Thanks

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  Hugh (Jock) Beebe says:

  Please tell us what mixture of resin/hardner used for this braod area application. I assume you use 206 SLOW hardner. Also what is the size of the nap on the roller you used?
  Thanks, nice to see the subtleties of your technique.

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    Nate Rooks says:

    Hugh – Russell uses WEST System 105/207 – the Special Clear hardener. It has similar timing properties as 206 – Slow hardener, but less amine blush. The rollers are yellow foam, I believe 1/8″ nap.

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  JOHN SHOUREAS says:

  At 12:35 in the video, you started sanding with 220 sandpaper and then finished sanding with 150. Why would your final sanding be with a coarser paper ?

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    Nate Rooks says:

    John – The final sanding with 150 grit is lighter than the block sanding with 220 and is to give the next coat of epoxy a little better chance to bond.

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  Scott Gile says:

  Russell, I wish I’d watched your videos BEFORE I started building my dinghy! In advance of #11, I have some questions for you regarding some problem areas I will have to deal with on finishing the inside of her. The kit instructions were to section the 2 layers of glass cloth between the interior frames of the dinghy and epoxy them in. Being new at this work, I did one section per/ day, where the sections meet above the frames aren’t so neat. I’ve scraped and will sand them down before adding finishing coats of epoxy. Especially given the holes/ depressions in these “in-betweens,” I’m wondering how best to fill them, so as to have a nice, flat base coat to build upon for an attractive finish. I have photos I can send to clarify these areas, if that would help. Thanks so much for your videos!!

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    Nate Rooks says:

    Hi Scott – you can email Russell at [email protected] with pictures to try and get some help troubleshooting.

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  Sean McGrath says:

  You don’t mention off-gassing and applying the epoxy to raw wood when the shop temp is falling. Is that not an issue with plywood?

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  Chris Murphy says:

  Thank you. I am always in a hurry to use whatever it is I am making so making it perfect is lost somewhere behind making it work now. The wonderful thing about watching Russell Brown is how easy he makes perfect look. Truly an inspiration. Thank you again, Chris Murphy

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  Bobby Staab says:

  Come to North Carolina and check out some of the stuff we do here.