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I epoxied the daggerboard trunk in place today. Everything went together as expected. After a few hours I hammered out the slot plug I used to keep everything in alignment. I then got the daggerboard out for a test fit! WooHoo!! It fits like a glove! THe daggerboard has already been epoxied with dynel and has a coat of primer on. Paint colors still a TBD.
Tim – what a great looking build! Nicely done. Maybe in a few more weeks mine will look almost as good. I like that you went the extra mile and created the inhale spacers. I am too.
Question – did you fasten the spacers to the hull first and then install the inwale or did you fasten the spacers onto the inwale and then fit it all together onto the hull?
Thanks, Doug H.
Scott – that is interesting. I like Doug Fowler’s explanation. My sincere hope is these little boats won’t be winning time trials. but will be a nice stable platform for grandkids to grow up with. Learn how to sail, go exploring at low tide, challenge themselves when the wind freshmen up coming out of the north. I’ll leave the physics of sail shapes and construction to the racers – I am beyond that- I am now more of go slow and then ease up….
Thanks Scott – Doug H.
It s now the next evening. Busy day sanding, varnishing, sanding, epoxy, sanding, cutting, sanding, shaping, sanding.
Did I mention I sanded a lot today? All part of boat building. Rather cathartic at times. Good for the soul.
my scarf joints came out way better than I expected! Didn’t get a picture. They are doing the job. I cleaned up the pieces, routed the sharp edges sanded everything nice. Ready for epoxy in the morning.
Hi John
I saw your build on another topic heading… very nice! I liked the round waterproof hatches.
I know nothing about the science of sail construction. Does it make a difference if it’s made with vertical panels or horizontal panels?
I am by no means an expert – but the few boats and kayaks I have done- I always laid out the fiberglass cloth over the unfinished bare hull and then got out the epoxy and saturated everything. I would think having the epoxy soaking into the wood, and encapsulating the fiberglass is probably the best “glue” up you could have. It would become one solid matrix. Not several layers stuck together.
Tom – your approach is probably the better route to go with. I didn’t think to use the plastic scraper/squeegee. Thanks for the suggestion!
That said, your approach triggered me to do the same on all the interior bulkhead and thwart pieces. I am epoxying everything out of the boat. Using the scraper was great. Quick, even coat, just enough to seal the grain. Will do another coat tomorrow. just straight epoxy, no cloth, no dynel, no thickeners.
I should be ready to start the interior assembly on Wednesday!
Thanks Ants, I am thinking of going very traditional. I want the grandkids to learn to sail on a simple and basic boat, but one that conforms to traditional rigging. They should learn what a splice is, how to Flemish a line, tie off on a cleat properly, etc.
Mark – Fiberglass cloth will be fine. It is my understanding fiberglasscloth provides a slightly stronger hull, but what we would do with these little boats it seems inconsequential.
Regards, Doug
Bob – I would be in favor or seeing your build and your friend’s!
Steve – would this be doable? Having blog series on more than Oonagh and Oraha?
Three generations of boat builders!
Grandkids love stripping off the peel ply!
Other bits and pieces being shaped, formed, epoxied.
Gluing up the two spars. Douglas fir and cedar accent. Cut down to octagon. Sanding jig using 2” PVC pipe. Bought pipe at Home Depot. Sticky roll sandpaper. It works beautifully.
Trying learn the ins and outs on posting pictures.
here is my build progress to date.Outside of hull – dynel, fiberglass cloth, two coats epoxy, two coats primer. Lower guard will be finished bright. Bottom completed and two coats of white anti fouling paint applied.
inside of hull dynel, fiberglass cloth, one coat epoxy
