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I’m sorry, I didn’t keep track of the number of screws I used. I think I mentioned in my blog which size screws I used at each step, and sometimes the quantity. I think the number of screws will vary depending on the builder’s confidence in the epoxy bond. I got a question from another builder about why I was using so many screws and the answer is, it just felt right. You may be able to estimate the number and size of the screws by watching Kit’s videos and counting the number of screws per foot she is using. The good thing about Fair Winds Fasteners is that the price is the same if you buy 10 or 100 of any quantity and delivery is pretty fast, so I just ordered what I thought I needed for the upcoming work as I went along. I hope this helps.
You can tell it was my first build by all the mistakes I’ve made, and I have made some big ones! But the important part is recovering from them.
Roy, thanks for the heads up. The package says solid brass hinges and Steel screws, so I ordered silicon bronze screws from Boltdepot.com. Just to be sure, I checked the hinges with a magnet and they are fine, but the steel screws did stick to the magnet.
Good idea with the sail cover. I may eventually do both. For this summer I plan to just go with the drain plug and sail cover, but longer-term, when it is not sailing weather, I need to figure out whether it’s going to be outside, where it will need a cover, or if I can store it in my garage where I built it. It takes a fair amount of space.
I am definitely going to paint. Otherwise, I wouldn’t have been so messy with the white fairing filler.
Peter, thanks for your questions.
First, please don’t interpret my Blog, in any way, as an instructional path forward. I am simply documenting how I, another novice, am building the boat without the help of the videos. Whenever OCH releases a video, I usually learn how I should have done it. There are multiple paths, but Kit’s way is usually the best. Now for your questions.
1. I initially only epoxied the skeg because nothing in previous videos gave me any indication that it was necessary. However, in a subsequent video, Kit showed how she secured the skeg from the outside. By this time I had already turned the boat over and no longer had access to the bottom of the skeg. I then secured it by putting screws through the inner keel and outer keel into the skeg. Where the skeg is largest, I used 3-inch #12 screws. I address this in my blog post: https://house-doc.net/Oonagh/?p=702
2. The forward end of the skeg is firmly epoxied to the outer keel and I have no concern with it separating. The epoxy is stronger than the wood. You should see Russell Brown’s video series on Mastering Epoxy. He does a test of an epoxy joint and tries to break the joint and only succeeds in breaking the wood elsewhere.
Here is a photo of my screws going through the keel into the skeg:
Good luck with your build.
Bob
Tom, I recommend doing it the way OCH recommends in the videos. If you don’t have a plunge router you can still use a jigsaw. I am ahead of the videos and when I was doing the bottom, I had no idea when the daggerboard slot should be cut. I was concerned about how to find the location of the stations after it was taken off the mold. Silly me. In one of the later videos, Kit suggested tracing the location of each mold on the inside of the boat before taking it off the mold. That solves the problem of locating the daggerboard slot. It is very important to trace the mold locations onto the inside because you use the station locations for all the measurements on the inside of the boat.
Looks great John. I wish I was that far along.
The weather is now in the 70’s and makes me want to go sailing.
